Motion Control drivers and motors

**bruce_miranda** · 09-09-2008

Originally Posted by Kip

Try a DMM and then wire them one way or the other...not both!

Attached is a wiring diagram I sent someone else here.....hth

Isn't this the Series connection? What I want is a parellel connection so how will that look like?

**Lee Roberts** · 09-09-2008

Bruce, have a look at this mate:

http://www.mycncuk.com/pdf/wiring.pdf

That should help you out with the wiring of the bob, check you'v got all that right and then tonight ill give this a bit more time and work out what you need to do.

Lee

**Lee Roberts** · 09-09-2008

Bruce, check your wiring to this:

**bruce_miranda** · 09-09-2008

I've wired this exactly like the diagram. I'm going for a parallel connection so I've done.

Blue+Red to A+
Blue/White + Red/White to A-
Green+Black to B+
Green/White + Black/White to B-

But someone else told me that it should be as

Blue+Red to A-
Blue/White + Red/White to A+
Green+Black to B-
Green/White + Black/White to B+

I've tried that too and nothing. No improvement.

This is happening on all 3 axises. I cannot get the motors to rotate smoothly, they are rotating in jerks.

**Gary** · 09-09-2008

Wiring looks fine, and the current is set to 4.2 A so that should be ok also.
The problem that you are seeing is a typical noise or low signal problem, or possibly both.
These are the points you need to address:

1) Use Shielded cable for all signal cables
2) Shield the motor phase cables.
3) keep signal and power / phase cables apart, and if they need to cross, they should cross perpendicular.

Also check the signals from the pc, the voltage should be about 5V, it it is low the driver can miss pulses and you can get the stuttering you are seeing.

**Gary** · 09-09-2008

I just had an email from Bruce, and it apears that his clock pulse is about 3.3V, and he is using a laptop.
This is most definately the problems, and is actually quite common when a laptop is used.
The solution would be to use either another laptop with higher voltage outputs, or a desktop PC with a parallel port.

Bruce,
Try this and give us your results.

Thanks

Gary

Originally Posted by bruce_miranda

Aiming for Parallel and don't know what the wiring should be. So any help with be nice here.

Gary from Motion told me that the SW4 was meant only for dropping current down to half after a phase but I'm so lost now I'll try anything.

**bruce_miranda** · 09-09-2008

OK going to try and get my hand on a 'full' PC and see how things go.

Does anyone know of a supplier for a buffered Breakout Board similar to the ones CNC4PC do but in the UK? Hopefully that will give me a full 5V signal and I can use my laptops again.

**irving2008** · 09-09-2008

Originally Posted by Gary

I just had an email from Bruce, and it apears that his clock pulse is about 3.3V, and he is using a laptop.
This is most definately the problems, and is actually quite common when a laptop is used.
The solution would be to use either another laptop with higher voltage outputs, or a desktop PC with a parallel port.

Bruce,
Try this and give us your results.

Thanks

Gary

What breakout board is he using? The MDS drivers are optisolated so dont really need a sophisticated BOB and are pretty immune to cross-over noise on the signal lines due to the low impedance 'on' drive. Unless he has a very long cable from PC to BOB or the BOB is a old design with TTL rather than CMOS logic I'd be suprised that the use of a laptop was an issue.

**irving2008** · 09-09-2008

Originally Posted by bruce_miranda

OK going to try and get my hand on a 'full' PC and see how things go.

Does anyone know of a supplier for a buffered Breakout Board similar to the ones CNC4PC do but in the UK? Hopefully that will give me a full 5V signal and I can use my laptops again.

Bruce - how are your drivers wired to the PC? The MDS series are opto-isolated. Unless there is some strange wiring issue a higher output voltage wont make any difference as they are active low drive.