Warco VMC Turret Mill - CNC Conversion

[antsals]

I take it the hardware is made by CDE also, if so that i suspect is the problem (Hardware).

To test i would remove the motors from the machine run the code and see if any motor stops when it shouldn't. That will eliminate any machine binding issues.

I would also check the power supply voltage they have some pretty low output votages, i just cut my losses and sold the system.

Phil

Phil,
What have you done then? Sold the system and made your own?

Ant

[M250cnc]

Ant

I an sorry to say I sold it on ebay, this was about 3 years ago.

I use Mach3 as the controller I bought new drivers and power supplies.

It is ten times better than it was before.

Phil

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[antsals]

It what way is it better? What stepper drive units are you using? I was looking at the 240v versions from Zapp automation?

[Robin Hewitt]

It what way is it better? What stepper drive units are you using? I was looking at the 240v versions from Zapp automation?

I used them and no regrets, not cheap but you save a bundle on power supplies. Minimum current is 3.18A RMS 4.5 peak. I wired the coils in series because Gary said it would keep the heat down, even so. Any suds splash that lands on the motors boils off but the heat doesn't seem to be a problem. OTOH, do try and dump the heat in to the mill rather than on to the lead screws.

[M250cnc]

It what way is it better? What stepper drive units are you using? I was looking at the 240v versions from Zapp automation?

Night & day difference.

You need the highest voltage that your motors will tolerate which gives the highest speed. Then the amps give you power/torque.

Personally I would stay away from all in one boards.

Zapp, Arceurotrade, Motion Controlled Products are good places to buy

Phil


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[antsals]

I've been building a plasma cutting bed so I could just use the CDE kit for that and put together a new controller for the mill.

[M250cnc]

That's a good idea, the mill will need the more powerful setup.

But it will work so much better I bet you bin the CDE kit.

Phil

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[antsals]

Robin,
That could be one of the problems I'm having if the adjusting bolts a moving then I could be jamming up the bed. Maybe I could mark the bolts and see if they move. Maybe I should start on the screws! You are right they are really sloppy. I have a feeling I'll have to get the inside of the bed machined away to get some space for the nut. What size ball screw did you use?

Thanks,
Ant

[Robin Hewitt]

I used 15mm x 5mm pitch screws with a 5:4 belt reduction. Originally 5:2 before I upgraded the drivers.

If the Gibbs aren't held firmly in position the slides are tight in one direction, loose in the other. You just can't get the adjustment right.

I made some studs that screwed in where the Warco adjustors used to screw in. That gave me a very fine pitch 8mm male thread and a flanged adjuster nut rather than a bolt. I threaded the stud internally 5mm to hold a cap that pinches on the end of the Gibb. Can't turn, can't slop.

[antsals]

Robin,
Did the OD of the flange of the ball nut clear the underside of the bed? I'm thinking of buying a smaller ball nut so I can ensure I have something to bolt too. I had to grind the edge of the flange away so it would no longer clash with the underside of the bed. You can see this in the pictures at the top of the post.

Regards,
Ant