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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by CHudson View Post
    Oh and a good tip if some tracks are connected is get a 12v power supply, connect the positive to the board and tap the negitive on each track, it will either spark where the connection is or melt the connection completly, saves loads of time compared to going around the tracks with a stanley knife believe me!
    I've done that before, sometimes accidentally - it's very effective! Could even get the router to do it for you if you connect the power supply to the cutter ... probably taking it too far.

    Quote Originally Posted by CHudson View Post
    Not Bad, been doing pcbs on a cnc router for a while now. Would advise a depth of 0.14mm using the 60 degree Zrn Coated 2 flute bits from precisebits.com. Works perfectly for my stuff. The standard v carve bits only last a little while where as these bits last me for around 40 boards if cared for.
    I think you're best off with as small an angle on the bit as you can get, that compensates for any slight inaccuracies in how flat the PCB is mounted getting the isolation closer to a constant width. Assuming you've surfaced the bed before making the PCB it's not too big an issue, but still worth considering especially on big PCBs or arrays of boards.

    Even better in my opinion is to use a very small endmill, say 0.5mm or less instead of a V-cutter, then the height is not an issue. Also I think it would leave less burrs than a V-cutter, although I've found that using the 25mm/min per 1000rpm spindle speed rule you don't get many burrs.

  2. #2
    Hi

    I was just browsing for relevant posts for my project and I happened to stumble upon yours. That is a very cool idea ! I am also thinking to throw away chemicals and that odd stuff !!

    How much does this CNC machine costs ? I am planning to get one for my hobby circuits. because through prior way it takes too much time to make one !!

    dave
    Last edited by davejo; 05-10-2012 at 03:47 PM.

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