. .

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 16 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,970. Received thanks 369 times, giving thanks to others 9 times.
    Mutli-viscosity oils such as 10W40 have viscosity modifiers so the viscosity remains more constant over temperature change.
    A 10W40 oil acts like a SAE10 oil at 25degC, and a SAE40 oil at 65degC (at least I think that's what the temps are, but they're maybe 5deg of!).

    Engine oils also have a lot more additives and detergents (with the exception of the more specialist SAE oils aimed at small engines/classic engines), which there is a possibility may cause issues with some seal types, and the detergents can dislodge drit/grime that would otherwise be sitting causing no problems.

    Hydraulic oil on the other hand, is pretty much one of the purist oils you can get, with minimal additives, and certainly no viscosity modifiers.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    ...10W40 oil acts like a SAE10 oil at 25degC, and a SAE40 oil at 65degC...
    How hot should the headstock get - not 65°C? At the moment it's a little warm, but not excessively.

    Quote Originally Posted by m_c View Post
    Engine oils also have a lot more additives and detergents (with the exception of the more specialist SAE oils aimed at small engines/classic engines), which there is a possibility may cause issues with some seal types, and the detergents can dislodge drit/grime that would otherwise be sitting causing no problems.
    I've searched on other forums and it looks like other people have used it. Some of the additives might be beneficial...

    I'll get the hydraulic oils for £13.71 off eBay to be safe. It doesn't say in the manual how much is required, but I should think 5L of each is plenty.

  3. #3
    First useful parts I've made on the lathe:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC07278 (Medium).JPG 
Views:	803 
Size:	158.8 KB 
ID:	3976

    Socket spanner for the toolpost, I made the socket ages ago with the rotary table on milling machine before I converted it to CNC. It happened to fit the toolpost nut

    Second is two small pins for my rc car, 2.8mm diameter - 45mm long. I have not got an MT3-2 adapter so can't use my centres yet so had to do it unsupported. It worked fine though. One of them is stainless steel by accident! They hold the wishbones on - the original is just a simple bar that keeps falling out.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Setting the zero point on a CNC lathe
    By Robin2 in forum Lathes, Lathe Rebuilding & Conversions
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 20-10-2013, 10:37 PM
  2. Colchester Chipmaster Lathe HELP !!!
    By snookaman in forum Lathes, Lathe Rebuilding & Conversions
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 28-08-2013, 10:23 AM
  3. colchester student 1800 help with knowin what my lathe is capable of
    By whensparksfly in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 26-01-2012, 03:30 PM
  4. colchester student 1800 help with knowin what my lathe is capable of
    By whensparksfly in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 26-01-2012, 01:26 PM
  5. Colchester Student 1800 Square Head Lathe - HELP !
    By cncroger in forum Milling Machines, Builds & Conversions
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-02-2008, 08:28 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •