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  1. #1
    Tigerseal is always good, but may make future dismantling a bit more challenging!
    that sounds like the type of stuff ..... you wouldnt happen to have a beard and tatto's on yer face would you M_C ?

  2. #2
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 1 Day Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,992. Received thanks 376 times, giving thanks to others 9 times.
    Quote Originally Posted by blackburn mark View Post
    that sounds like the type of stuff ..... you wouldnt happen to have a beard and tatto's on yer face would you M_C ?
    Tigerseal is just a brand name for PU (Polyurethane) adhesive, and is used in the motor industry for sealing/sticking car panels on. It relies on moisture to set, and once set nothing other than physically cutting it of will shift it. Just make sure you wear gloves when dealing with it, as if you let it set on your skin, it takes a good few days for it to eventually fall off.

    And no tat's here, only stubble!
    Although I am known as the grumpy one at work...

  3. #3
    I don't think i'll need anything that extreme!

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by jcb121 View Post
    I don't think i'll need anything that extreme!
    hahahaha! i was thinking that.... im going to store that one in my memory though, Polyurethane adhesive.... might come in handy

  5. #5
    I don't have a problem with dismantling it! I have all the tools needed to split them.

    I genuinely couldn't get the cylinder off though.

    on my 2nd day of riding the bike, I went to my metal shop to price up some alu for my cnc, went there today and said it was broken. he genuinely looked sad and gave me some steel and bolts for free.

    he just told me to get the bike running!

    I drilled holes for the cylinder studds in the metal and drilled a central hole. I had a 100mm bolt to push down on the piston and pull up the cylinder.

    marked the piston badly but it was scrap anyway.

    thinking about it, i should have picked up some alu at the same time and started to build my CNC on the cheap!

    Sticky is ok, It has to be strong mainly. it needs to withstand oil, coolant and high pressures from the bottom end.

  6. #6
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 1 Day Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,992. Received thanks 376 times, giving thanks to others 9 times.
    PU does come in handy, but a proper instant gasket is what will be needed.
    I'm not sure what you can get aftermarket that isn't just overpriced black silicon, hence my suggestion of either the Ford or VX stuff.

  7. #7
    So, I will have all my CNC stuff my this Week.

    Only problem is, due to this motorbike mess, I have no money for the frame!

    And I'm going on holiday next week so no building for atleast 3-4 weeks! :(

  8. #8
    Threebond 1194 is what you want. It's the replacement of the product that used to be sold as yamabond/suzukibond (has no lead in it now). Comes in a tube for about £22, apply it with a small brush so it goes on thin. Before you join the cases make sure there are no raised edges from prybar bodgery to hold the case halves apart, as air leaks spell death for 2-strokes.

    The powervalve isn't essential to the running of the bike, in fact some bikes were sold with the valve present but no actuator - the valve was fixed in a pre-set location (the TZR125 was not sold with the actuator as a uk bike in fact). If your piston was damaged then that would be the cause of the very poor power at low revs, the valve just alters the port timing to provide increased drivability down low and high throughput at revs. If you had no valve, you would suffer from poor low down response but not to the level you are describing. Bottom line is - you don't need one for getting about.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter. View Post
    Threebond 1194 is what you want. It's the replacement of the product that used to be sold as yamabond/suzukibond (has no lead in it now). Comes in a tube for about £22, apply it with a small brush so it goes on thin. Before you join the cases make sure there are no raised edges from prybar bodgery to hold the case halves apart, as air leaks spell death for 2-strokes.
    Thank you, there is 100grams for £10 on the fleabay so will have to buy that!

  10. #10
    So, Not really an update but finally got my electronics sorted :D

    Click image for larger version. 

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    and I think I hit my Aim of it being cheap-ish.

    all of it for just under £180 quid, still £170 too much though!! :heehee:

    My other bits should be here Friday :D

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