. .

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1
    Thanks Johnathan

    My current power supply is 40V so it looks like upgrading those should help out alot with regards to the steppers being able to cope.

    I suppose I should of been a bit more specific with my pretty fast comment :) my current machine rapids at 10000mm/min and I am pretty happy with that so if i go for 20mm dia at 10mm pitch on the X and 16mm dia also at 10mm pitch on the X and Z I should be able to achive those speeds.

    At first I will be direct driving the screws as it will be alot easier to mount the steppers. Once the machine is built I will be able to make brackets and motor mounts for a timing belt/pullys with the machine.

    I did consider 2 screws on the X and I do agree with you, the only reason I went with the single was so I didnt have to buy another driver, stepper and ballscrew, the cost is mounting up as it is, if there is any way to get arround using 2 screws would be a big help. I have seen some pretty good ideas on ways to help prevent racking which I may try out, one that sticks in my mind is a system using pullys and cable similar to those used on sliding patio doors I will see if I can find the link. Failing that I guess I will have to let some more moths out my wallet and buy the extras.

  2. #2
    Yes, more than 40V will be much better - so long as your drivers are rated for more?

    You can't get 10mm pitch 20mm diameter screws from eBay (or at least that was the case next time I checked) so it looks like you'll have to use 16mm pitch. I wouldn't go for 25mm as the moment of inertia of the screw will be significantly greater which will affect the acceleration.

    Remember that a 10mm pitch screw on the Z-axis will backdrive very easily, so you will almost certainly have to prop up the axis before switching off. I used 5mm pitch on the Z-axis, but with a pulley and gravity does cause the axis to drop when I switch off.

    If you don't want go spend a lot on another stepper/driver (fair enough) then why not link the two ballscrews with a pulley on each and a timing belt. Ideally 3 or 4 pulleys with the motor in between so that belt stretch is even... easer than the cable method I think.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 3 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 3 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-03-2014, 01:31 AM
  2. BUILD LOG: Steel Framed CNC router
    By Joe in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 23-06-2013, 10:45 PM
  3. BUILD LOG: Formed steel cnc router
    By sbams in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 07-03-2013, 02:00 AM
  4. BUILD LOG: Steel Framed Router
    By GTJim in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 52
    Last Post: 14-09-2011, 06:51 PM
  5. BUILD LOG: My steel framed router
    By pavlo in forum DIY Router Build Logs
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 06-03-2011, 10:08 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •