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  1. #1
    Just after a bit of advice regarding sheds. I originally thought of getting a metal type beause they are weather proof, if anyone tries getting in I'd know about it(my friend used to have one that was impossible to enter silently. Most importantly metal doesnt burn :) I live in a less than desirable area, home of inbreds and knobheads.

    But when I think of the wooden sheds they seem a little more sturdy, easier to warm in winter and dont look so bad in the garden. Price is pretty similar, Im after an 8x8 or 10x8.

    Any thoughts, reommendations or warnings would be appreciated :)

    Thanks, Phil

  2. #2
    The best shed is the biggest one.

    This is the 20x10' shed / 'workshop':

    Click image for larger version. 

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    My Mum was persuaded to buy it because apparently it doesn't look like a shed! My Dad put insulated plasterboard all round and put polycarbonate on the windows to insulate them. It keeps the heat in well. Not had the heater on today as there's been a bit of sun and it's 23C in here. I leave a heater on very very low to stop the temperature going below about 5C and have a de-humidifier to make sure nothing rusts.
    Last edited by Jonathan; 18-03-2012 at 11:30 AM.

  3. #3
    I would definitely go for a wooden one. A metal one will promote condensation and your valuable tools will go rusty in no time. You should line it with some sort of moisture barrier and insulation material to retain the warmth. If you're worried about theft fit big sturdy locks and a movement detector connected wirelessly to a house alarm.


  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Not had the heater on today as there's been a bit of sun and it's 23C in here. I leave a heater on very very low to stop the temperature going below about 5C and have a de-humidifier to make sure nothing rusts.
    I've solved the heating problem by retiring to the South of France


  5. #5
    Mine is on a brick base to around 450mm high. Then pressure treated timber from there. Sheeting is OSB inside and out with 100mm thick polystyrene insulation in walls and roof. Roof is plastic coated metal and I managed to get vinyl cladding to cover it in. Looks quite good even if I do say so myself.
    If you are worried about security then brick is the way to go or insulated metal cladding on a steel frame building.


  6. #6
    Tin sheds are terrible, the self assembly variety anyway, your takeaway probably arrived in thicker metal.

    They line up terribly when assembling then rain inside from condensation.

    Used to be place that made motorcycle sheds from shipping container panels sliced down a bit, delivery by hiab but with boxes over the locks , puts off the passing thief...

    Timber with insulation is good option, bit of protective planting around perimeter to deter visitors, hawthorn, holly , climbing rose :-)

    Size does matter..

  7. #7
    Not sure about all the worry about condensation via a metal shed as the amount of water in the air should be the same wood or metal.
    If you insulate the metal then no condensation.
    Also cover up the machines with blankets etc then you shouldnt have much trouble with rusting etc.
    To be on the safe side get a dehumidifier, problem solved.


  8. #8
    Just scrapped a metal `garden store` because of the condensation problem, that and it was never very weatherproof due to the flimsy construction and poorly aligning parts.

    Current workshop is brick with asbestos cement roofing, more cement than asbestos one of the neighbours had it analyzed for employers liability, lined internally in shuttering ply, its heatable and a small heater running 24/7 keeps the damp at bay.

    Used to be across lane, its a lane of workshops of varying sizes, that had same roofing but no lining, on a cold day it rained inside,more than one person in, it rained more. On a hot day needed the doors wide open and fan running , without them open could probably bake bread.


  9. Hi
    If I may add to this topic I have build workshop using aerated blocks and plastered inside. Pretty easy to do it - even for amateur builder like me, especially when you employ your wife to mix a concrete :) . There is great advantage of this. I heat there very occasionally (wood burning stove +blowers), only when I plan to spend there long time there and is very cold outside. Sometimes I don't heat there for weeks. Because of great heat mass and insulation factor of aerated blocks temperature inside never dropped below 5C. There is no problems with damp or condensation. I wouldn't risk to weld, grind and cut in a wooden shed but I can do it in my shed without any worries. Don't remember overhaul cost of material but it was a way cheaper then buy this size(15m2) wooden shed.

  10. #10
    I keep extending mine, and use 90 x 40 ish studding for the basic frame as its cheap compared to normal sawn timber and you can get treated from b&q, then white upvc cladding on the outside which is also cheap at just over 10 for a bit 300mm high by five meters long, then insulate and clad on the inside with pine. I also double glaze, and while my last windows were proper upvc ones from b&q I found it cheaper to go to a local glazing firm and for a double glazed glass unit 60 x 45cm it was only 25 then build a wooden frame yourself. The windows and insulation do make a huge difference as it keeps it cool in the summer and warm in the winter, and I have a heater which is on a timer so it heats it up for the day, but even off on the coldest nights we've had it doesn't drop below 11 degrees inside. If you can build yourself is so much cheaper for what you get. Just remember a nice solid concrete base a couple of rows of engineering bricks then place damp course plastic on top to sit the wood on.

    :) Don

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