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  1. #1
    Has anyone done this before?

    Linear bearing - £6




    Bearing taken out, and Ballnut put in:







    Now it's not quite a perfect fit because the top of the nut is slightly ~0.5mm) taller than the top of the bracket housing. So one could either fit a thin sheet on top of the bracket, or trim the top off the nut if you can figure out how to do it. Or just account for it on the plate you are mounting.

    Anyway, seems better than paying ~£35 for a ballnut housing? Isn't it?

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Tenson View Post
    Now it's not quite a perfect fit because the top of the nut is slightly ~0.5mm) taller than the top of the bracket housing. So one could either fit a thin sheet on top of the bracket, or trim the top off the nut if you can figure out how to do it.
    You could use shimming steel to do this, a bench grinder can also be used to take the nut down a little.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tenson View Post
    Thanks Lee! Four of the six screw holes can be used, so I thought that is enough. I also considered putting a bit of lock-tight around the nut before inserting it.
    Humm are you sure?, the top two holes look as though they would pass through the mounting holes for the SMA unit, the middle two dont look like they would have much material for a thread because of the bore in the unit?

    As Jonathan said you may need to jig the nut about to get it concentric to the screw, all sounds a little to "make do" for me when a little creativity is all that is needed. Our right honorable gentleman Jonathan could properly fix you up with some custom mounts for a reasonable price.

    Somthing to think about also is machine maintenance in the future, maybe unlikly but what if a ball gets jammed or stuck in the nut and you need to take it apart....smash it out with a hammer ?!?!? Obserred, how dare you



    .Me
    Lee

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Roberts View Post
    You could use shimming steel to do this, a bench grinder can also be used to take the nut down a little.
    I'd be very wary of grinding a ballnut since any dust from grinding in the ballnut is a recipy for disaster. You could try and cover it up but I don't think its worthe the risk.


    Quote Originally Posted by Jazz View Post
    CAN NOT STRESS ENOUGH. . . . . .DONT DO IT. . . . ABSOLUTLY DONT DO IT.
    +1

    When I said earlier that 16mm rail would be fine 'if done right' I was assuming supported rails. You'll be much better off getting some SBR20 (supported) rails.

    The 6mm single flute cutters are brilliant...get lots! Although they are much better than most at plunging you shouldn't need to plunge - use spiral toolpaths or ramping. Router cutters with a 1/2Q shank are much much stronger than the 1/4" ones, so well worth the extra.


    Quote Originally Posted by Tenson View Post
    Very nice mounts. If I use your super rotating ballnut systems on the Y and X then I only need a nut-bracket for the Z right?
    Yes... but how long is the Y-axis screw going to be? It's a bit sledgehammer to crack a nut using a rotating nut on the gantry, althought it would work well.

  4. #4
    Don't under estimate the job the ballnut mount does.!!

    Ballscrew mounts, alignment and nut holding are crucial to a good working machine, if any one is off the slightest amount the result is friction.
    This friction as to be overcome by the motors, the motors lose torque as the speed increase. Has the speed increase's friction heats things up which inturn creates more friction sapping more power end result stalling motors or missed steps at best.!!. . . . Worse case things lock and prematurely wear away often quickly in tight ballnut's case and die suddenly.

    Saving a fiver can cost hundred.!!.. . . Is it really worth it.????

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