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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by JoeHarris View Post
    Hi Andy,

    My cabinet is about 790 x 790 x 275 deep. As I said in previous posts, please take this circuit diagram as a guide as to how I have wired my machine - it is from research on here and other places and is not an expert guide and may not be best practice, correct or even safe!? It may also have mistakes in it. I found it useful looking at other peoples diagrams and that is why i'm uploading it, but please do your own and be sure in your own mind that everything is correct before you wire things up. I don't want to be blamed for that infamous magic smoke!!

    Cheers

    Joe
    Thanks Joe, that's extremely helpful.

    Don't worry, I'll be sure to place a sticker on the inside of my cabinet that ensures any faults or issues are referred back to you! Any magic smoke captured will be posted directly to you - refunds are expected :)

    On a serious note though - you're very correct to point that out :) I'll be cross referencing every connection to the manual, and redrawing from scratch for a different breakout board and axis layout.

  2. #2
    Hi Joe,

    Currently puzzling over the implementation of the PNOZ X1.

    My understanding of your diagram is, if the coil in the PNOZ has +24V (i.e. E-Stop not pushed), we get:
    • The coil contactor closed for the drive PSU
    • A +24V E Stop signal to the IP-M
    • A lit up E-Stop reset switch light (?!)
    • The 24V pilot light is off


    With the E-Stop pressed, all the above reverse.

    Am I reading that correctly? I would have expected the two lights to be the other way around.

    Thanks,
    Andy

  3. #3
    Hi Joe,

    Great thread and videos, it's really helping me in the planning of my CNC design. I've been watching your videos on routing aluminium and am thinking this would be a good cost saving way for me to go. I have the same router as you (Dewalt DW621) but mine only has a 1/4" collet, you mentioned yours has a 1/2" collet in your video - did you get an adaptor or fit a new collet? I don't think I would trust a 1/4" shank bit to be strong enough routing aluminium.

    Keep up the good work!

    Cheers!

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyFive View Post
    I don't think I would trust a 1/4" shank bit to be strong enough routing aluminium.
    1/4" shank handles cutting aluminium no problem. I cut ali with 6mm tool all the time.

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
    -use common sense, if you lack it, there is no software to help that.

    Email: [email protected]

    Web site: www.jazzcnc.co.uk

  5. #5
    Really? That's good to know. What sort of cutter do I need and what depth of cut can I expect?

    Thanks for your help!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyFive View Post
    Really? That's good to know. What sort of cutter do I need and what depth of cut can I expect?

    Thanks for your help!
    Single flute cutter works well for aluminum if your new to cutting because gives better chip clearance. Regards Depth of cut and feeds etc then can't tell you because it's very machine and material dependant. What works for me probably won't work for you.
    Lots of variables come into play and machine stiffness along with spindle power play big role so you'll need to use trial and error. Expect to snap a few cutters.

    To practise don't use cheap Aluminium like 1050 sheet as it's more difficult to cut because it's sticky like chewing gum and not easy to cut without gumming up cutters unless know what doing.

  7. #7
    Also avoid AlTin coated carbide cutters if you're cutting aluminium. Use uncoated carbide. I learned this the hard way...

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