Boxford Model B lathe rebuild

[onecut]

Hi RNR, l work in a factory where we make tin printing machines was telling the painter about my soon coming lathe and what l wanted to do to it showing him apic of yours before and after he said i,ll get you the paint l asked for battleship grey l know they use this colour on their machines so thats one thing off the list l said what about red lead he said you dont need it with this paint theres an agent mixed in paint that stops rust what do you use the acid for cleaning the ally parts? what is red oxides job is it for sealing to stop rust if it is l dont think l need it with this paint would like to spray can get gun off ebay£15 rated 5stars and goob backfeed from past purchases thin it with white spirit and give it 3 coats dont know ratio of white spirit and paint=so that leaves the primer what does this bring to the table

[rnr107]

Hi RNR, l work in a factory where we make tin printing machines was telling the painter about my soon coming lathe and what l wanted to do to it showing him apic of yours before and after he said i,ll get you the paint l asked for battleship grey l know they use this colour on their machines so thats one thing off the list l said what about red lead he said you dont need it with this paint theres an agent mixed in paint that stops rust what do you use the acid for cleaning the ally parts? what is red oxides job is it for sealing to stop rust if it is l dont think l need it with this paint would like to spray can get gun off ebay£15 rated 5stars and goob backfeed from past purchases thin it with white spirit and give it 3 coats dont know ratio of white spirit and paint=so that leaves the primer what does this bring to the table

Hi Onecut,
The red oxide is a primer to protect against rust. I know, many paint manufacturer says that it is not needed. But I prefer to be safe than sorry if you see what I mean... Painting a lathe properly is a loooooooong job, so you don't want to have to re-do it in 6 month time... So use Red oxide primer on steel / iron parts! Then etching primer on aluminum parts (acid8 is good). Acid8 is a special primer for aluminium it is not use to clean, check U-pol web site for details. http://www.u-pol.com/documents/datas...8AL-TDS-EN.pdf

That paint you use at work, is it heat and oil / petrol resistant ? Because if it isn't, the paint won't last very long...
This is what I used: (It is specially formulated for machinery)...
http://www.lathespares.co.uk/paint-m...rd-lathe-p-412

Laurent

[onecut]

Hi, laurent thanks for replying dont know if its heat,parafin,resistant i,ll find out before l use it if not i,ll buy the stuff your recomending l suspect the paint from work will have the qualities your asking about as we make industrail printers , presses so l suppose it would have to have those qualities or like you say would come off in no time and customers wouldnt be impressed but i,ll make sure and quiz the painter before l proceed-thanks

[jonnydeen]

back to the grind (pun intended)
been busy of late restoring a yamaha rd & trying to find a mill
now the search is over and ill have a centec 2 mill arriving in about two weeks time.

the centec is going to need a complete strip down and rebuild then it'l be converted to cnc :)

with the centec project looming, the pressure is on to get the boxford finished.

let me introduce you to my little friends...

i dedicate two cheap 115mm grinders to the unforgiving job of paint removal and with the addition of one 'weapon' of a wire wheel i have one formidable setup.
the reason for using 2 grinders is simple, they have a tendency to overheat so i swap them over every once in a while.
the drill is used for getting into tight spots but it doesn't have the umph to compete with the grinder

today i started to attack the cabinet

you can see the effect of the grinder on the top of the cabinet, like a knife through butter
in the next photo you can see the 'sump' (if thats what its called) too narrow for the grinder, the drill makes short work of this

i got as far as doing the top and front of the cab as well as the door then gave the stripped parts a lick of red oxide primer

tomorrow i am aiming to have the rest of the cab stripped primed and the interior parts painted leaving the exterior ready for its first coat (if im lucky i may get 1 or 2 coats done)

you may notice the castors on the left hand side of the cab, these are just for ease of moving the cabinet

kudos to RNR for the grinder / wire wheel idea, i never thought of putting one on the grinder

[rnr107]

Hi Jonny,
Good job on the stripping! Keep the good work! ;-)

One thing tho, Once a part has been prime, it can not stay without paint for more than a day or 2... The primer must not get in contact with humidity once it is dry.
You must paint over it (with final paint or under-coat) ASAP .

Ho.... and do a test first primer... then paint on a small section to see if the paint re-act to the primer. (not all paints are compatible with all primers...)
If it bubble, it's a no go! I had that with primer from Plasti-kote.

Laurent

[jonnydeen]

Hi Jonny,
Good job on the stripping! Keep the good work! ;-)

One thing tho, Once a part has been prime, it can not stay without paint for more than a day or 2... The primer must not get in contact with humidity once it is dry.
You must paint over it (with final paint or under-coat) ASAP .

Ho.... and do a test first primer... then paint on a small section to see if the paint re-act to the primer. (not all paints are compatible with all primers...)
If it bubble, it's a no go! I had that with primer from Plasti-kote.

Laurent

ive already done a test run with the paint, and its come out good
although im not going to show the test piece as that would just spoil the suspense! :)

i am at the mercy of the weather with this build so i have to prime the bare metal to protect it, even though once all the paint is removed il have to rub back the primer and do the whole thing in one go

stay tuned for more fun and frolics!

[onecut]

hi,johnny lm a million miles away from converting to a cnc be honest when l read blogs concerning the terms they use are goobley gook to me but lm intrested is there a book on how to convert small m/cs to cnc for the total novice

[jonnydeen]

hi,johnny lm a million miles away from converting to a cnc be honest when l read blogs concerning the terms they use are goobley gook to me but lm intrested is there a book on how to convert small m/cs to cnc for the total novice

i understand where your coming from, i am also a cnc novice but ive learned alot from just googling. i still get stumped regularly at the sheer technicality of some folks on this forum (especially when it come to electronics). all the information i have has come from hours of reading through forums and using google to decipher the gobbledygook

remember... take everything with a pinch of salt, there are many ways to skin a cat and you just need to find the way that suits you!