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Thread: Wood Router

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  1. #1
    Make sure the gantry doesn't hit the Y Axsi motor :)

    if you fitted the motor the other way you'd get an extra few cm's of cutting area :)

  2. #2
    Just spotted something with Z axis.?

    I you take the motor off the front plate and position it on the Y axis then connect to Z screw with belts you get far better Accelleration from the Z axis. You also don't need long screw and you get the other bennafits of belts I mentioned earlier.

    My setup used the way you have it drawn but I now build all machines using the system described above and can tell 100% it's a much better setup.

    Edit: Like these pics. Obviously done to suit your machine with round rail, which actually makes it easier.!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 27-05-2012 at 04:52 PM.

  3. #3
    Trust me :) the X axis dosnt hit the motor ( always thought the longest axis was the X ? .... theres a fight waiting to happen LoL ) the belts long enough to run under the gantry.
    I ve seen your Z axis Jazz and did draw it up like yours but left it as it was made out of more parts and the pulleys made the router plate hang further from the gantry. I think il have to give in and sort the belt drive on the Z axis , i did think i was heading this way , with the 1:2 ratio.

    Im pretty much fixed with the G540 at the moment which drives my mill at 150imp on rapids but as you say the gantry is carrying alot more weight which has to be controled when accellerating and de-accellerating while cutting.
    So the next question is would you remove more material by wasting away or would you keep the mass of the side plates ... both has benifits , but i guess a lighter ganrty is the way to go
    L8r

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Buba b View Post
    So the next question is would you remove more material by wasting away or would you keep the mass of the side plates ... both has benifits , but i guess a lighter ganrty is the way to go
    L8r
    Incorrect priorities.
    A heavy gantry (and machine in general) is good since you want to have as much strength as possible. Making cutouts, including the ones you have already drawn, just wastes strength and money. Rigidity is far more important than feedrate. If you're reducing the mass to improve the feedrate you're going about it the wrong way - you should select the motors and drivers to get the feedrate you require which, as Jazz said, means buying 70-80V drivers such as the M752. Bear in mind the stepper motor output torque at high speed is roughly proportional to the applied voltage, so going from 45V to 75V is a 67% gain in torque where it matters.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Incorrect priorities.
    A heavy gantry (and machine in general) is good since you want to have as much strength as possible. Making cutouts, including the ones you have already drawn, just wastes strength and money. Rigidity is far more important than feedrate. If you're reducing the mass to improve the feedrate you're going about it the wrong way - you should select the motors and drivers to get the feedrate you require which, as Jazz said, means buying 70-80V drivers such as the M752. Bear in mind the stepper motor output torque at high speed is roughly proportional to the applied voltage, so going from 45V to 75V is a 67% gain in torque where it matters.
    Yep has Jonathan knows I agree with him 100% . . .Don't cut mass for speed. I'd do without the speed before ridgity every time.! To be honest Ridgity can make up for the lack of high feed by allowing deeper DOC.

    Sell The G540 get the bigger drives you won't regret it and you'll be amazed what them motors can do on 70V.!!

    I'm an X Axis is long Axis believer has well and anyone who says other wise is a numbnut . .Lol

  6. #6
    Yeh i agree with both of you but at the end of the day i need to get this machine working on the G540. Replacing the Gecko with the PM752 is the way to go for both machines but the cost is adding up for just the build of this hobby machine let alone replacing the drives. Had a quick look on the Evilbay and it would still look like an extra £280 ( not including steppers ) to get this setup .So im just going to have to run the Gecko at slow speed .... im in no rush , its a hobby until the cash surfaces.

    The spend so far looks like this

    Extrusion £250
    Tool plate £180
    Linear Rails £230
    Bolts / fixings £52
    Steppers £120
    Cables £50 = £882 ..... ouch even i didnt think i had spent that much !....... and who said golf was expensive !

    L8r ive got a kitchen to fix !

  7. #7
    Sorry to sound negative but do you realise that using the G540 with those motors your not actually getting 3Nm holding torque.? The G540 is limited to 3.5A and those motors are 4.2A so you'll have a proportional loss of torque.!! . . basicly you'll only have 83% motors rated torque so the potential issues could be worse.!!

    Not trying to put a downer on the build and fully understand the need to keep funds under control just want to high-light potential areas for disapointment when finished.
    Unfortunatly I see far too much Miss-match motor-drive-PSU combo's and one of the things I hate when speaking to new users is telling them they have bought mis-matched stuff.

    I say bo@#*cks to the kitchen sell the GF buy some big drives. .

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