Translating the manual

[mmattucc68]

First off - Thank you so much for the prompt reply...I do appreciate your time and advise. It is a reassured feeling that one is not alone in their struggles.
I'm actually not sure what this problem could be. Since sending the first post, I disassembled the interruptor valve and looked closely at the switch - nothing seemed damaged or faulty. The switch contactors are doing their job (as I witnessed LED's inside the control cabinet). Since the hydraulic ejectors are the only thing working normally at this point, I decided to take the plug off of Eject Forward side valve and connect it to the Mold Closing side valve (to see if there was any blockage or some other physical problem inside the lines that prevented the platen from moving forward)...The platen moved forward when I pressed the Eject Forward button (only a short distance - but still forward)...I used this opportunity to double check my b44, b25, and b20 switching. I then returned the plugs to their intended homes to try manual movements (the way they were intended)...back to the same problem. The pump gives me the pressure up "sound" but no movement. Platen can move backward, ejectors move forward and return, but still no platen forward. At this point I'd rather just bypass the thing anyway...I'm just not sure how or if to jump out the switch. I can make up a block similar to what they have to allow the fluid passage un-interrupted...beyond that I'm stuck. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm also going to try calling Arburg service...

[Robin Hewitt]

I'm just not sure how or if to jump out the switch. I can make up a block similar to what they have to allow the fluid passage un-interrupted...beyond that I'm stuck. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm also going to try calling Arburg service...

Isn't the manifold block behind the hydraulic interruptor only there for the interruptor? If so you don't need a new block, all you need to do is connect the ram line to the solenoid line. Blanking off the reservoir pipe could be a good idea because it is shared by the screw speed control on the diagram, might leak. If the electrical switch is working why not just leave it in?

[mmattucc68]

Well, after spending the better part of today, and trying a host of other possibilities quoted from the Arburg service technician (who, by the way was very helpful), I found that the issue with the valve was not mechanical, electrical, or hydraulic...it was my failing vision.
When the machine arrived the control cabinet had been dismantled and instead of unplugging the individual connectors from the valve grouping in the rear, all of the wires were disconnected inside the cabinet - (not sure why they chose this method as it is far more time consuming and leaves far more chance for error on the next assembly). In any event, I was the reason there was no voltage going to that particular side of the valve - I placed wire 27 where 37 needed to be. The printing on the wires was worn and very difficult to see. The wires are all in their correct positions and success. Thanks again for your replies and advice - it really did help me get on the right path. I'll post some pictures and/or video once I learn how...
Thank you.