Tb6560ahq ic

**Jonathan** · 30-09-2012

Originally Posted by Philly

Is there a simple way to test the stepper motor?

It depends what's wrong with it, but there's a few things you can try with basic tools to get a limited amount of information:

If you've got a multimeter you can check that the resistance of each phase is close to the value specified in the datasheet.
Check that there are no short circuits to the housing or between the phases.
Try disconnecting it from the driver then short circuiting each phase individually and it should get significantly harder to turn.
Try turning the motor not connected to anything and you should be able to just feel the steps, but still quite smooth. Probably best to compare it to one of the other motore assuming they're the same.
If you've got a current limited power supply you could set it to the rated phase current and check that the motor draws that current at the right voltage and doesn't breakdown as it heats up or something.

When you try the new ICs, switch it on then monitor the temperature of them. If it gets hot switch off straight away and you'll probably save it...

Best option, as I'm sure you'll have heard by now, is to just get a few of these, or a higher voltage one depending on the motors:
CNC Micro-Stepping Stepper Motor Driver 2M542 Bi-polar 2phase 4.2A Switch | eBay

That's just the first I found, other sellers are available and there may be cheaper ones...

**Philly** · 04-10-2012

Originally Posted by CLaNZeR

You get what you pay for I am afraid :(

I have gone through most Stepper drivers out there over the years and the Tb6560 are the worse ones I have came across.

You can pick up replacement ones for £3.00 off ebay though.

Cheers

Sean.

To be honest, apart from this trouble with the drivers/breakout I've not really had any issues with the machine. I bought it mainly for PCBs and enclosures but have made all sorts with it :)

I have checked the motor and get around 2ohms per coil, checked this against a working one and its the same value. Turning it by hand feels fine, no dead or flat spots and each steps feels fine. I think it may be the wiring has a break somewhere and when the X axis is moving its temporarily going open. I read somewhere that this can kill the drivers so im going to create a new loom tonight :)

Hopefully the ICs will arrive soon so I can get back to work :)

Thanks for the help.

**Musht** · 04-10-2012

>You get what you pay for I am afraid :(

As a complete newcomer at CNC , first thing found out was what gives first if run an axis into its end stop at full speed, answer on 3040 anyway is the coupling, now keep a spare along with a spare TB driver chip. At least at this level not so scared to try things that might break things.

It was the loom fracturiing that killed the drivers on mine, has been fine since the re-wire.

**Philly** · 04-10-2012

I've kept a couple of couplers on standby from the beginning, not yet needed one yet :) Ordered 5 TB ICs so will have a few spares.

**Philly** · 19-10-2012

Update: I have replaced the chips, Y axis is fine now but the X has the same issue(I guess it wasn't the chip). The signal doesn't seem to get around the driver and I think the optocouplers are the problem. I have bridged pin 2 to pin 7 on the 6n137 Opto and now I have slight twitches. The red led flickers when the jog button is pressed now(it never did) but the motor only makes a slight twitching move and moves maybe 0.5mm :)

Do you think the opto just needs replacing?

Thanks

**Jonathan** · 19-10-2012

Originally Posted by Philly

Do you think the opto just needs replacing?

Quite possibly. You should measure the voltage before and after the opto-isolator to verify as it could be a problem with the parallel port.

**Musht** · 19-10-2012

Originally Posted by Philly

I have bridged pin 2 to pin 7 on the 6n137 Opto

Thanks

Data sheet looking at would make that 2. LED anode to 7. VEnable

mebbe wanting 6. VOut

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/6N/6N137.pdf

**Philly** · 19-10-2012

Port seems fine. Im not sure if you are familiar with this IC but have I bypassed it correctly or do I need to disconnect the Cathode of the LED(Pin 3)?

Thanks, Phil

**Philly** · 20-10-2012

Right, after changing it to pin 3 to pin 6 I have movement but its rough and noisy, but at least I know the driver works so will be ordering some optos to get it going. I found some el817s in some chinese PSP chargers I have knocking around. So need a 6n137 now. I wonder if i can scavange it out of an old stereo or kids toy.

**irving2008** · 20-10-2012

Originally Posted by Philly

Right, after changing it to pin 3 to pin 6 I have movement but its rough and noisy, but at least I know the driver works so will be ordering some optos to get it going. I found some el817s in some chinese PSP chargers I have knocking around. So need a 6n137 now. I wonder if i can scavange it out of an old stereo or kids toy.

Doubt it, but why mess around? Rapid have them in stock for next day @75p ea