Tb6560ahq ic

[Musht]

Is this a motor fault, it sounded ok for the brief moment it moved, or is it more likely to be damaged wiring between motor and driver?

Thanks for any help, Phil

Another 3040 owner here.

original breakout board on mine had E-Stop wired to something completely different, the box seems a bit thrown together.

The wiring on the frame seems to be have been made with some sort of super brittle wiring, really not up to getting flexed all the time, rewired Z &X on mine and replaced the TB`s , its easier to cut the chip out and mop the pins off , reassembly pretty straighforward then.

Cheers
Adam

[Philly]

You get what you pay for I am afraid :(

I have gone through most Stepper drivers out there over the years and the Tb6560 are the worse ones I have came across.

You can pick up replacement ones for £3.00 off ebay though.

Cheers

Sean.

To be honest, apart from this trouble with the drivers/breakout I've not really had any issues with the machine. I bought it mainly for PCBs and enclosures but have made all sorts with it :)

I have checked the motor and get around 2ohms per coil, checked this against a working one and its the same value. Turning it by hand feels fine, no dead or flat spots and each steps feels fine. I think it may be the wiring has a break somewhere and when the X axis is moving its temporarily going open. I read somewhere that this can kill the drivers so im going to create a new loom tonight :)

Hopefully the ICs will arrive soon so I can get back to work :)

Thanks for the help.

[Musht]

>You get what you pay for I am afraid :(

As a complete newcomer at CNC , first thing found out was what gives first if run an axis into its end stop at full speed, answer on 3040 anyway is the coupling, now keep a spare along with a spare TB driver chip. At least at this level not so scared to try things that might break things.

It was the loom fracturiing that killed the drivers on mine, has been fine since the re-wire.

[Philly]

I've kept a couple of couplers on standby from the beginning, not yet needed one yet :) Ordered 5 TB ICs so will have a few spares.

[Philly]

Update: I have replaced the chips, Y axis is fine now but the X has the same issue(I guess it wasn't the chip). The signal doesn't seem to get around the driver and I think the optocouplers are the problem. I have bridged pin 2 to pin 7 on the 6n137 Opto and now I have slight twitches. The red led flickers when the jog button is pressed now(it never did) but the motor only makes a slight twitching move and moves maybe 0.5mm :)

Do you think the opto just needs replacing?

Thanks

[Jonathan]

Do you think the opto just needs replacing?

Quite possibly. You should measure the voltage before and after the opto-isolator to verify as it could be a problem with the parallel port.

[Philly]

Port seems fine. Im not sure if you are familiar with this IC but have I bypassed it correctly or do I need to disconnect the Cathode of the LED(Pin 3)?

Thanks, Phil

[Musht]

I have bridged pin 2 to pin 7 on the 6n137 Opto

Thanks

Data sheet looking at would make that 2. LED anode to 7. VEnable

mebbe wanting 6. VOut

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/6N/6N137.pdf

[Philly]

Right, after changing it to pin 3 to pin 6 I have movement but its rough and noisy, but at least I know the driver works so will be ordering some optos to get it going. I found some el817s in some chinese PSP chargers I have knocking around. So need a 6n137 now. I wonder if i can scavange it out of an old stereo or kids toy.

[irving2008]

Right, after changing it to pin 3 to pin 6 I have movement but its rough and noisy, but at least I know the driver works so will be ordering some optos to get it going. I found some el817s in some chinese PSP chargers I have knocking around. So need a 6n137 now. I wonder if i can scavange it out of an old stereo or kids toy.

Doubt it, but why mess around? Rapid have them in stock for next day @75p ea