7' X 4' Combi

[Ricardoco]

Ok using some of Jazz's Suggestions, Ive reworked the Z axis and included all machined parts im hoping to end up with.



Im Hoping Thats better than my first attempt, i've put pockets in to remove weight, whilst trying to maintain structural integrity..

Rick

[wilfy]

if this works, you know you are making me one of these when i expand my empire. :D

btw why did you go for a weird size like 7' x 4' instead of 8' x 4' which would let you fit a full size sheet of anything?

[Ricardoco]

if this works, you know you are making me one of these when i expand my empire. :D

btw why did you go for a weird size like 7' x 4' instead of 8' x 4' which would let you fit a full size sheet of anything?

LOL I will have to get one made for myself first hopefully ill get a few comments first, Then i will RFQ and see Who wants to make the parts for me..

The size? Hmmmm, i only needed 6' X 4' but you lose about 8" or more from the tool to the back of the gantry, so 7' covers what i need but is still considerably cheaper than going to the 8'. To actually have an 8' X 4' usable area can mean a machine of upto 9'..

Maybe iI will do a Full 8' X 4' usable area when ive comleted this One.. He He He..

Rick

[m.marino]

Beautiful,

Only one question; how do you plan to lubricate the ball-screw that rides inside of Z? having run into this issue myself, I though it wise to point it out. One option is to machine a port into the plate and have the zerk (grease) nipple come out through it to the front and thereby save yourself from having any future issues with greasing the ball nut (not something that has to be done often but trust me not fun to do with having to remove half the Z to get at things. Other then that great design and keep on with what looks to be a wonderful build.

Michael

[Ricardoco]

Beautiful,

Only one question; how do you plan to lubricate the ball-screw that rides inside of Z? having run into this issue myself, I though it wise to point it out. One option is to machine a port into the plate and have the zerk (grease) nipple come out through it to the front and thereby save yourself from having any future issues with greasing the ball nut (not something that has to be done often but trust me not fun to do with having to remove half the Z to get at things. Other then that great design and keep on with what looks to be a wonderful build.

Michael

OMG!! thanks mate (Dont know your name) i left space to put ports in for the rail blocks but not the ballnut, and never incorperated them into the design.. Thats magic thanks for noticing that.. I will sort it now.

Rick

[JAZZCNC]

OMG!! thanks mate (Dont know your name)

A BIG clue is the last word . . . . . " Micheal ". . . . Lol

[Ricardoco]

Beautiful,

Only one question; how do you plan to lubricate the ball-screw that rides inside of Z? having run into this issue myself, I though it wise to point it out. One option is to machine a port into the plate and have the zerk (grease) nipple come out through it to the front and thereby save yourself from having any future issues with greasing the ball nut (not something that has to be done often but trust me not fun to do with having to remove half the Z to get at things. Other then that great design and keep on with what looks to be a wonderful build.

Michael

There You Go, Ive put a pocket in , it will be behind the stepper when the Z is fully up. Im woring on the placement of the limts at the moment so its not quite finished but I suspect I will post it for quotes in the next week or so, the trouble is eveyone is a little busy at this time of year.





Rick

[JAZZCNC]

Hi Rick,

See Little things but important and worth the little extra effort.!

First the linear rails and bearing pockets. Ideally you want registers to aid alignment/re-assembly and because your pocketing the bearings you can use the walls of these pockets has the registers by making sure the bearings on one side of each set of bearings aliagn with the walls (See Red circles in pics).

Also I'm sure this you know but I'll point out any way just in case.? The pockets have square corners and we can't easily machine sq corners. So the pockets will need additional length to allow for the radius of the cutter. (circled Blue)

Can I just ask what's the rectangular piece with 2 holes.? (circled green)

The top stepper bracket.? Is it a 2 piece part or single.? Doesn't really need to be 2 piece and could be single and still do the job. Also the little bits that lock into the pockets won't be needed and make the machining and fit harder than needs to be Again due to radius corners clashing with square edges.
To be honest all the pockets and step down on top piece could also be done away with and reduce machine time without adding a massive amount of weight. Lot of work in that one piece that doesn't need or had much to the machine.

The I'd also leave a small skin 1-2mm on the lightening pockets on rear plate so it doesn't leave access for flying chips.

I know it's just probably to save drawing but remember all internal corners will have radius so take care this doesn't catch you out if anything is close on dimensions or catching.?

Edit: Oh Before those observing think I'm being negative or putting someones work down which to be honest I'm getting sick being accused off then Ric asked me to have a look and comment.

[JAZZCNC]

One other thing I don't see any reference to a ballscrew or bearing mountings for one.?

The slot up the centre looks rather narrow for Ballnut and it's mount has well.?

[Ricardoco]

One other thing I don't see any reference to a ballscrew or bearing mountings for one.?

The slot up the centre looks rather narrow for Ballnut and it's mount has well.?

I have two AC Bearings for the top mount and the Top plate has pockets accordingly 32x10 ID12 and a floating beatring for the bottom. (to suit a 1605 ballscrew) each half of the channel is 40x20mm so that should be enough... I think..



This is the ballnut i will be using although im open to suggestions, If you think a better one could be used.

Rick