Gerber system 48

[Swarfing]

Apply 24v to the coil and see if it slams shut? Contactors are not that expensive these days so maybe worth swapping out anyway. Being the way this thing seems to have popped all over the place, check for any leaking caps.

[martin54]

Ok just guessing here but the mill light might be for the router itself which will be either a porter cable or a perske spindle. These are 115v supplied so although you have now sorted the 24v transformer you will need to see if you have a 115v supply.
Pretty sure the operators manual doesn't cover stuff like this & I was unable to get anything from spandex in the UK but you might have more luck across the pond. Spandex sold & maintained these machines.
To be honest I haven't really spent any time looking at the operating manual other than look to see if it had any technical info, will see what it says about operating. To be honest I hadn't thought to much about what came out of it although I did put it away rather than throwing it out as I knew there were still a lot of these machines being used.
If it's the side the control box is mounted to then yes there was a gland plug on my machine, can't remember what ran through it but sure as well as something to the control box there were wires to the emergency stop/power on switch.

[great-dragon]

Apply 24v to the coil and see if it slams shut? Contactors are not that expensive these days so maybe worth swapping out anyway. Being the way this thing seems to have popped all over the place, check for any leaking caps.

I'm not sure on your definition is for inexpensive,but I just checked Allied Elec. and they want $119, which may not be that much but it's been replaced once already. That was a pic of the old one setting off to the side. So now I just need 24v to test it. Thou when I was tracing the wires, the routers power ties into it and well the router should be 115v ac.
I'll be there tomorrow so I'll retrace the wires.
Also I should be able to test the power going to the motors right, the A+,A- etc.

[great-dragon]

Apply 24v to the coil and see if it slams shut? Contactors are not that expensive these days so maybe worth swapping out anyway. Being the way this thing seems to have popped all over the place, check for any leaking caps.

I'm not sure on your definition is for inexpensive, cause I have no idea what they would normally cost, but I just checked Allied Elec. and they want $119, which may not be that much but it's been replaced once already. That was a pic of the old one setting off to the side. So now I just need 24v to test it. Thou when I was tracing the wires, the routers power ties into it and well the router should be 115v ac.
I'll be there tomorrow so I'll retrace the wires.
Also I should be able to test the power going to the motors right, the A+,A- etc.

[irving2008]

well the TIP transistors are only a few pence so its only time n effort to swap them out. however that's a pretty catastrophic failure so cant help wondering what else has died... law of diminishing returns applies...

[Swarfing]

$119 sounds a bit expensive to me, you should be able to just replace the coil on it's own if your lucky?

[great-dragon]

$119 sounds a bit expensive to me, you should be able to just replace the coil on it's own if your lucky?

I'm guess by that you mean a repair kit. I did see that as an option at one site.

[great-dragon]

well the TIP transistors are only a few pence so its only time n effort to swap them out. however that's a pretty catastrophic failure so cant help wondering what else has died... law of diminishing returns applies...

Point well taken. And well I was thinking the same thing thou I wish I would have seen that before I replaced the rectifier.
Short of removing the PCB and looking at the back for burn marks or incomplete paths, everything looked ok.
Just wondering if there's a chance it'll still run with that one cracked as bad as it is, or if it's a must replace to keep testing.
Or just recommend an electronics update. I've looked into gecko stuff and thou its more of a top end product (I'm assuming) I've looked at xories stuff and thou its cheaper I've read good reviews. But it may be just hit or miss. Don't think the software would be a prob cause he mentioned that before I had a chance too.

For what its worth I have a crappy net connection, tethering through a G network sux wouldn't be bad if it was 3G, so researching some things take forever. But reading forums ain't bad cause its mostly text. But when I can I go to a friends and use his net...

Anyways Thx any and all info is greatly appreciated.
Greg

[irving2008]

Point well taken. And well I was thinking the same thing thou I wish I would have seen that before I replaced the rectifier.
Short of removing the PCB and looking at the back for burn marks or incomplete paths, everything looked ok.
Just wondering if there's a chance it'll still run with that one cracked as bad as it is, or if it's a must replace to keep testing.
Or just recommend an electronics update. I've looked into gecko stuff and thou its more of a top end product (I'm assuming) I've looked at xories stuff and thou its cheaper I've read good reviews. But it may be just hit or miss. Don't think the software would be a prob cause he mentioned that before I had a chance too.

For what its worth I have a crappy net connection, tethering through a G network sux wouldn't be bad if it was 3G, so researching some things take forever. But reading forums ain't bad cause its mostly text. But when I can I go to a friends and use his net...

Anyways Thx any and all info is greatly appreciated.
Greg

Sadly cracks like that are a result of vapourised internals so will need replacing, no option I'm afraid...

[great-dragon]

Sadly cracks like that are a result of vapourised internals so will need replacing, no option I'm afraid...

Understood. Guess I'm heading back to the supply house. LOL I so need a fuel efficient vehicle.