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29-12-2012 #1
I know this is academic since they're sold - sorry but I'd be tempted to go for 2010.
I'll be honest and say that I've swapped these out on my machine for 2010 as they're just too slow for cutting wood on the end of a nema 23. These small motors only run up to about 1000rpm with reasonable torque. Spinning at that speed the most you can reliably expect is about 5m/min traverse but little torque left for cutting. This is fine if your doing a lot of metal routing where your usually around 1m/min or less but for MDF like I do its just not fast enough where you need to be cutting 4-5m/min usually.
Depends what your cutting the most really! Judging by your gantry weight its not a lot so doubt it will be for metal. If your mostly cutting wood go for 2010 or even 2020 if your using the latest digital drives and suitable motors as these have very fine resolution using realtime microstepping adjust and signal input interpolation. If its metals then 2005 or 2010 would be fine.
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29-12-2012 #2
Thanks for letting me know . . mate.

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Last edited by Lee Roberts; 29-12-2012 at 10:36 PM. Reason: re: considered as a joke
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29-12-2012 #3
I considered buying them, for about 20 seconds.
The only thing this size ballscrew is good for is maybe a big milling machine or lathe. For other machines, like CNC routers, the forces on the ballscrews are so low that you don't need the slight increase in stiffness gained from using a RM2005 screw, hence you're much better off sticking with 16mm ballscrews and the appropriate pitch. The price was good, but to me that's not enough to counter the poor performance you'll get on a router with these, especially since it could increase the cost of the electrical parts. Presumably John S has a big machine to convert...
Hmm really?
Last edited by Jonathan; 29-12-2012 at 03:32 PM.
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29-12-2012 #4
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29-12-2012 #5
Perhaps, but we both know you'd me much better off getting 1610 or 2010 for a router this size. 325 USD including postage (but not customs) gets you two RM2010-1500mm, so yes a bit more but well worth the extra money if you are swapping since you can keep the same end-machining, unlike with 1610. Wearing out the ballscrew would take some doing anyway, I gather it's generally the nuts that fail first.
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29-12-2012 #6
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29-12-2012 #7
Forgot who your talking to here Numb nuts.? . . . . What you think you know your wrong about.!!
This machine has been working fine for nearly 5 years with 2005 and the wear is very slight and possibly in the nut, could even be end bearings I haven't checked yet. Mostly it's down to the fact it's been abused and abused with no protection and run in some shity conditions.!!. . . . . 1610 or 2010 would give me nothing extra I have already that is of any use to me so why would I bother changing now.
It would just have been nice to have had the chance to buy some cheap replacement screws before being offered up to general public considering the involvement I've had with this machine.!! . . . ANT.
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29-12-2012 #8
You need to take everything though, I'm not pissing about wasting diesel to pick 10 bobs worth of gear up.
What you should NOT do:
- Discuss or link to objectionable and/or offensive topics. This is not permitted and includes but is not limited to: things of a violent nature, pornography, sexism, racism and/or other discriminatory subjects, this includes things considered to be as a “joke”. Religious and/or political discussions or anything considered to be of the same nature are not appropriate for these forums and will be removed from public viewing.
Last edited by Lee Roberts; 29-12-2012 at 10:43 PM. Reason: re: considered as a joke
John S -
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29-12-2012 #9
To be honest, when you mentioned this the other day, I thought you were going with 2010 if it came to replacing the screws and gearing down to 1:1. Didn't even enter my head that you might want them otherwise would have given you a shout of course.
Your in luck because John's a true gent and looks like he's willing to step aside so your welcome to them if your still interested by the time you read this. Let us both know ASAP and we can sort the details.
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29-12-2012 #10
Its not slight when your spinning them at 1000rpm+ At 1.45m I've got a 1610 on the Y axis and it just starts to show whip at 10m/min, at 14m/min its like jelly! You won't run at these speeds of course but for cutting wood you want in the range of 4-7m/min depending on the cutter dia and flutes along with DOC. Unless of course your spinning the nut but I'd still go 2010 at those lengths anyway. The cost difference is minimal for the added peace of mind.
Or he's chopping them up into lots of little screws ;) More likely though is he'll put them in his cnc spares stash and leave them for a rainy day. The man has enough parts to set up a cnc factory.Presumably John S has a big machine to convert...
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