CNC Router V1.0 (For Cutting Multiple Materials)

**biketrialsdave** · 22-10-2015

Ahh I see, yes your right. I'm not 100% happy with the useable z height I get either. I think I will redesign the z axis but may also have to increase the height of the gantry sides. I could do with finding a 'cheap' solid solution for the bed too...

**biketrialsdave** · 22-10-2015

Not sure if to consider coolant at this point either!

**JAZZCNC** · 22-10-2015

Originally Posted by biketrialsdave

Not sure if to consider coolant at this point either!

Yes 100% consider it and also cable routing etc.

Cutting aluminium correctly will need a minimum of blown air and idealy minimum qty coolant ie: Fogless mister. Don't need full flood but better if can have it.

**biketrialsdave** · 22-10-2015

I think an aluminium bed with t-track bolted to it looks like a good idea. Just need to find some for a reasonable cost!

**biketrialsdave** · 25-10-2015

I may of found a cheaper solution. "MakerBeam" is a 10x10mm extrusion and relatively cheap. I was thinking something along the lines of this:

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For the bed plate itself (shown in green). What would be the most cost-effective solution? The dimensions are 725x825mm. Steel or aluminium? What thickness would suffice?

**biketrialsdave** · 27-10-2015

I might of solved my bed problems! Look what I found in the skip at work today (along with other goodies)... It's 6mm steel plate. The dimensions are perfect for the machine to sit on. The raised area in the middle also looks perfect for mounting a bed (aluminium plate or t-slot plate perhaps?). My only concern is how flat and level the plate is. I was thinking it doesn't matter too much if I skim the aluminium plate (or whatever) with the machine once it's built?

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**biketrialsdave** · 30-10-2015

Decisions, decisions!

**biketrialsdave** · 02-11-2015

My latest thought is to bolt down a 20mm aluminium plate to the top of the steel raised area (shown in photo). I will then use the machine to skim the surface flat. Then I will use the machine to drill a grid of holes which I can then tap (maybe the router could do this??) for holding jigs and fixtures.

**routercnc** · 02-11-2015

Originally Posted by biketrialsdave

My latest thought is to bolt down a 20mm aluminium plate to the top of the steel raised area (shown in photo). I will then use the machine to skim the surface flat. Then I will use the machine to drill a grid of holes which I can then tap (maybe the router could do this??) for holding jigs and fixtures.

A plate with holes in should work well. But I don't think the WC spindles have enough torque to tap directly? However, you can try thread milling using a special cutter (~£40), plus your CAM will need to be capable of a spiral cut with user parameters on the pitch:

Forward to 12:23 to see thread being cut:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a43S2y7Ccy8

**JAZZCNC** · 02-11-2015

Originally Posted by biketrialsdave

My latest thought is to bolt down a 20mm aluminium plate to the top of the steel raised area (shown in photo). I will then use the machine to skim the surface flat. Then I will use the machine to drill a grid of holes which I can then tap (maybe the router could do this??) for holding jigs and fixtures.

Can't imagine that plate is flat enough to be useful and could cause you more trouble than it's worth.?

Personaly I would just buy Machine tooling plate that is ground perfectly flat. Put your Profile etc directly on this and then shim out any error using the nice flat surface for reference. No need to skim flat. Then you can drill tap matrix of holes. Forget tapping with router type spindle no where near enough torque or control to do this unless thread milling. It's nothing of job to do with spiral flute tap in a Cordless drill.