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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by biketrialsdave View Post
    Hmm well I do have an arc welder somewhere in the shed. Not touched it for years and was never any good at it! May need to get practicing...
    Get it out and get practicing. Don't use old rods and buy good quality rods not some cheap rubbish from car boot as they make all the difference. Keep them dry and stick in oven on low heat for 15 minutes before starting. Welding new metal like Box section is a piece of piss with a stick welder. Also Just realise you don't need Xray quality welds and Just like Snow makes every body's gardens look the same so does a good grinder and paint on pigeon shit welds. . .
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 06-07-2014 at 07:06 PM.

  2. #2
    Just pulled it out the garage, its the one in the link below. Very cheap and cheerful. Only a 100A output.. What sort of thickness steel box section would be best to use? 3/4mm?

    http://www.metals4u.co.uk/welding/we...sp?prd_id=3124
    Last edited by biketrialsdave; 06-07-2014 at 07:11 PM.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by biketrialsdave View Post
    Just pulled it out the garage, its the one in the link below. Very cheap and cheerful. Only a 100A output.. What sort of thickness steel box section would be best to use? 3/4mm?

    http://www.metals4u.co.uk/welding/we...sp?prd_id=3124
    4mm will be better than 3mm but either will work. With 100A you'll be limited to 2.5mm rods which will be better suited to 3mm.

  4. #4
    I will find all my gear and get hold of some scrap metal sometime this week! :) It's always good when you find a reason to use an untouched tool! Out of interest, how are people bolting their linear rails to box section? Bolt all the way through both sides?

  5. #5
    Clive S's Avatar
    Lives in Marple Stockport, United Kingdom. Last Activity: 11 Hours Ago Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 3,347. Received thanks 620 times, giving thanks to others 89 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Is a beta tester for Machinists Network features.
    Quote Originally Posted by biketrialsdave View Post
    I will find all my gear and get hold of some scrap metal sometime this week! :) It's always good when you find a reason to use an untouched tool! Out of interest, how are people bolting their linear rails to box section? Bolt all the way through both sides?
    You can't bolt all the way through as it would squash the box section without spacer tubes I used 5mm box section so just drilled and tapped it but others have glued a steel plate inside the box section with gorilla glue and then drilled and tapped. As Dean says you don't have to be super accurate because you can use epoxy on the top with a moat between the rails so that it levels out on the same plane.
    When and if you come to this step just ask as quite a few people on here have used it. I used the Wests System which is ultra slow curing ie 15 -20 hours and so levels out very well ..Clive

  6. #6
    Why is it not possible just to drill a bigger hole in the bottom face of the tube and nut up to the underside of the top face? G.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by GEOFFREY View Post
    Why is it not possible just to drill a bigger hole in the bottom face of the tube and nut up to the underside of the top face? G.
    It is possible Geoffrey but to be honest it's not needed. Mostly I use 4 or 5mm without any problems but in the past I've fitted rails to 3mm box with no issues. The fine pitch gives enough threads engaged and because of the number of bolts you don't need to swing on them to tighten down.
    I just use spring washers with loctite on threads and never have any trouble. The rails on my machine are into 3mm box and have been on for over 6yrs without any bolts coming loose so it works well enough.

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