CNC Router V1.0 (For Cutting Multiple Materials)

**biketrialsdave** · 29-01-2016

Originally Posted by njhussey

I've got a sodding great big 40mm front plate that my 2.2kw spindle hangs off and my 3Nm stepper whizzes it up and down no problem so you'll be fine!

That's re-assuring. I've just done some quick calcs and it looks like the steppers will be more than up to the job. Of course, it was an educated guess!

**biketrialsdave** · 30-01-2016

More big steps today...cleared a big space in the shed and measured up ready to build my workbench/stand!

On a side note, what method does everyone recommend for finishing aluminium parts? Some of the larger parts I had machined for my router are not milled on both sides and so are dull and have the original "stock" finish (some have lettering etc). I want a finish which is durable and ideally helps oxidising. Anodising would be ideal but I think that's going to be a little price and not something I can do myself? So this leaves me with: Polishing (if so, what's the best way and will the finish oxidise over time?), spray painting, powder coating, other plating??

Thanks in advance!

**JAZZCNC** · 30-01-2016

It's bloody tool not a Pimp My Ride.!. . .

. . . . . . Which is bit rich coming from a Bloke who's spent quarter the day Plastic coating parts for sexy little router he's finishing off. . .

**biketrialsdave** · 30-01-2016

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

It's bloody tool not a Pimp My Ride.!. . .

. . . . . . Which is bit rich coming from a Bloke who's spent quarter the day Plastic coating parts for sexy little router he's finishing off. . .

Pimp my CNC!

I think I'll use some 1000grit sandpaper then see if I can replace the grinding wheel on my cheap Aldi bench grinder with a polishing one.

**Wobblycogs** · 30-01-2016

I've polished a few bits of aluminium by starting with about 220 grit and a random orbit sander then going up the grits as high as possible before finishing by hand. I don't really think it's worth it though as aluminium is so soft it scratches again in five minutes. I suppose you could spray a lacquer on it maybe.

**biketrialsdave** · 30-01-2016

Hmm I think I'll do a 'quick' polish but nothing overboard.

While I'm thinking about it, should I be using threadlock on all my parts? Or will torquing to the correct value be enough?

Also, do I need to remove all the machine oil from my new ballscrews before using them?

**biketrialsdave** · 04-02-2016

Ahhhhh panic!!!

I thought things were going too well... I don't know how I've missed this but the 45 series rexroth extrusion has 10mm diameter holes for M12 screws on the ends. For some unknown reason I've designed my aluminium gantry sides for M6!!! I've seen you can get an M8 "cutting bush" which reduces the bore. Would my best option be to use these and get the side plates drilled out to M8?

=(

**JoeHarris** · 05-02-2016

Originally Posted by biketrialsdave

Ahhhhh panic!!!

I thought things were going too well... I don't know how I've missed this but the 45 series rexroth extrusion has 10mm diameter holes for M12 screws on the ends. For some unknown reason I've designed my aluminium gantry sides for M6!!! I've seen you can get an M8 "cutting bush" which reduces the bore. Would my best option be to use these and get the side plates drilled out to M8?

=(

It would be much worse the other way around! Why don't you just increase the size of the holes on your end plates to take m12? Or am I missing something?

**biketrialsdave** · 05-02-2016

Originally Posted by JoeHarris

It would be much worse the other way around! Why don't you just increase the size of the holes on your end plates to take m12? Or am I missing something?

I could do this but M12 socket caps look massive and don't leave much material thickness. Perhaps I might have to compromise with M12 button head bolts and not countersink them?