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  1. #1
    Hmm maybe it's time for yet another re-think then...

    I don't want to go OTT with the design but obviously it needs to be useful. What are you opinions on the gantry design as it stands so far? Are there any other alternatives to a steel box section base?

    Thanks for all the help,

    Dave

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by biketrialsdave View Post
    Hmm maybe it's time for yet another re-think then...

    I don't want to go OTT with the design but obviously it needs to be useful. What are you opinions on the gantry design as it stands so far? Are there any other alternatives to a steel box section base?

    Thanks for all the help,

    Dave
    Dave don't get me wrong I'm not saying profile won't work because it works great and I use it all the time but it does need to be supported and braced correctly and by this I mean not using in the normal manner profile is used IE: using corner brackets etc. I'm also not saying your design is flimsy or weak just not has strong as you may be thinking. It will certainly have some chatter in harder materials as the frame vibrates.
    For this high side design to work best with profile, esp when on it's thin edge you need to brace the hell out of it using plates.

    Your gantry is ok-ish but I would have a bit more strength in the bottom profile as this takes the most the cutting forces. To be honest I'd have the L shape layout of the profile at the bottom but with lower profile laid flat.

    I understand your reluctance to weld but it really isn't difficult or needs to be expensive. Don't need a Mig and like as been said cheap stick will work fine.
    If you don't want to weld then how about finding someone who can weld and have them do it for you.? If you cut and preped all the steel it wouldn't take someone long to weld that simple frame.! . . 2 hours Max and I'm allowing for a very very slow welder there.!! If all steel was cut and preped it would literially take me 30-40mins tops just for the welding.
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 06-07-2014 at 11:32 AM.

  3. #3
    Hmm well I do have an arc welder somewhere in the shed. Not touched it for years and was never any good at it! May need to get practicing...

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by biketrialsdave View Post
    Hmm well I do have an arc welder somewhere in the shed. Not touched it for years and was never any good at it! May need to get practicing...
    Get it out and get practicing. Don't use old rods and buy good quality rods not some cheap rubbish from car boot as they make all the difference. Keep them dry and stick in oven on low heat for 15 minutes before starting. Welding new metal like Box section is a piece of piss with a stick welder. Also Just realise you don't need Xray quality welds and Just like Snow makes every body's gardens look the same so does a good grinder and paint on pigeon shit welds. . .
    Last edited by JAZZCNC; 06-07-2014 at 07:06 PM.

  5. #5
    Just pulled it out the garage, its the one in the link below. Very cheap and cheerful. Only a 100A output.. What sort of thickness steel box section would be best to use? 3/4mm?

    http://www.metals4u.co.uk/welding/we...sp?prd_id=3124
    Last edited by biketrialsdave; 06-07-2014 at 07:11 PM.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by biketrialsdave View Post
    Just pulled it out the garage, its the one in the link below. Very cheap and cheerful. Only a 100A output.. What sort of thickness steel box section would be best to use? 3/4mm?

    http://www.metals4u.co.uk/welding/we...sp?prd_id=3124
    4mm will be better than 3mm but either will work. With 100A you'll be limited to 2.5mm rods which will be better suited to 3mm.

  7. #7
    I will find all my gear and get hold of some scrap metal sometime this week! :) It's always good when you find a reason to use an untouched tool! Out of interest, how are people bolting their linear rails to box section? Bolt all the way through both sides?

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