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12-01-2013 #11
How would you attach the bearing to the screw, locktite retainer?
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12-01-2013 #12
from what i've seen the end of the ballscrew is threaded either internally or externally and a cap screw and retaining plate is used to hold the bearing onto a journal, or simply held on with a nut on an external thread.
Obviously this depends on the quality of the bearing for backlash removal, and is not much good for heavy loads as the bearing is designed for radial loads not axial loads.
If you want the correct method then you need two opposing angular contact bearings in a housing.
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12-01-2013 #13
How old is this Marchant Dice machine ?
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12-01-2013 #14
Can you post some photos of the opposite end of the screw so we can see how its mounted?
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12-01-2013 #15
Last edited by gavztheouch; 12-01-2013 at 01:20 PM.
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12-01-2013 #16
I wonder if this is where strikecnc got the idea of not using proper bearings on the ballscrews.
Anyway, I think the easiest way to solve this is to buy a pair of FK/FF bearing blocks since so long as the extrusion is long enough you can drill a hole in either side and put the new bearing mounts in. That's assuming the ballscrew end machining is standard, what does it look like?
Also, I'd solder those motor connections as if they work loose whilst the machine is running the stepper driver could be damaged.
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12-01-2013 #17
It looks as though you have some end float which could be shimmed out.
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12-01-2013 #18
Thats even worse than I thought it would be. The only thing keeping that bearing in place is the ballscrew and if its whipping about it will start to pull the bearing out as well. The first photo isnt very clear but it doesnt look like there is any kind of nut or circlip holding the ballscrew on the outside of the bearing.
I would either buy or make two bearing mounts and get them fitted but you might have to get some lathe work done on the ballscrew as I cant see it already having threads for a securing nut.
Another option would be to use the bearings blocks on the insides of the gantry and have the shaft lathed to fit between the two blocks, some spacers might be required as well. The two blocks on the inside would remove any sideways play from the ballscrew.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Web Goblin For This Useful Post:
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12-01-2013 #19
First choice would be Throw the thing in the scrap bin where it belongs and start again.!!. . . OR. . . Failing that A simple fix would be use a thrust bearings at coupler side of profile, presuming the other has deep grove bearing, and thread the shaft and put locking nut on.
Better way would be machine the profile to accept angular contact bearings then thread the shaft and lock nut or use Bearing block machine screw to fit.!
First choice would be best solution.!!. . . . . . If you wan't to know all the hassle coming your way with if you continue with this pile of shite then just contact Micheal (M.Marino) has he's been there and pay'd the price. Honestly not worth the price of the thrust bearings in my experience.!!
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12-01-2013 #20
a double row angular contact may be a simple compact way forward if you can squeeze one in somewhere
3200 5200 ZZ Series Metal Shielded Double Row Angular Contact Bearings - Choose | eBay
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