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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by Iwant1 View Post
    Are these parts, going to be used as the actual speaker fronts that will need prep work and finishing, or are they for the moulds you were planning on making?

    Thanks.
    Hi again mate,

    These are for moulds. Plan is to use polyurethane rubber with the masters used as the plugs, pour that in around them. Let it set and remove then afterwards its ready for casting. This way I can use high density resins with fillers to create my own solid surface/corian like material. Perfect for this application where you want to be getting rid of as much of the vibration as possible.

  2. #2
    makes my clock gears look sh1te

    outstanding work sir. top of the class

    Ive absorbed all your pointers though regarding cutters etc. and just placed an order for some two flute carbide cutters. I also need to think about extraction as combined with fag ash i doubt the mdf is doing my lungs any favours.

    also, you come across as a very tidy worker. your workshop looks like an operating theatre and this shows in the quality of your work.

    you mentioned modelling board? what is this? As im also still learning im keen to try as many different materials as I can.
    I spent £50 on saturday on what is supposed to be Far Eastern Marine ply. but it splinters and frays I think ive just got a bad batch from a bad supplier. But like the look of this material...

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by kingcreaky View Post
    you mentioned modelling board? what is this? As im also still learning im keen to try as many different materials as I can.
    Thanks!

    This is the stuff:

    Polyurethane (PU) 580 Model Board Tooling Block in High Density - Easy Composites

    Machines brilliantly although tough on cutters and isn't cheap for what it is. If you need a material that'll give you a super fine finish when sanded, this gives you that.

  4. #4
    So how did you align it to do both sides?

    I usually but the piece against a fixed bar to get it in line on one axis and then jog the cutter to a hole on the piece in a known place to align the other axis.

    I'm off to make a waveguide today!
    Last edited by Tenson; 12-03-2013 at 03:42 PM.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Tenson View Post
    So how did you align it to do both sides?

    I usually but the piece against a fixed bar to get it in line on one axis and then jog the cutter to a hole on the piece in a known place to align the other axis.

    I'm off to make a waveguide today!
    The method your using isn't accurate enough. Not for a two sided part because any error is going to be multiplied by a factor of 2 when flipping it over

    Two reference edges cut in a surfaced jig to align the stock parallel to the X and Y and make sure its flat. Then 4 dowel holes were drilled through the jig, table and stock. Took awhile to figure out but its very simple and effective. All datums were at home switch position because the part couldn't move or misalign thanks to the dowels. That meant no probing needed and one less potential error that could creep in.

  6. #6
    Nice work mate , what you selling those monkey coffins for I would be very interested :) ?

    Fiction is far more plausible when wrapped around a thread of truth

    Nothing great was ever achieved without enthusiasm.
    Ralph Waldo Emerson


  7. #7
    I was wondering where Jazz had got to. Hadn't seen any recent activity from him, anyway hope you get better soon.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shinobiwan View Post
    Two reference edges cut in a surfaced jig to align the stock parallel to the X and Y and make sure its flat. Then 4 dowel holes were drilled through the jig, table and stock. Took awhile to figure out but its very simple and effective.
    Ant, if you don't mind and when you got time, I'd appreciate it if you could make a short video of the above method. I just can't get it round my head. Doesn't have to be another £300 speaker mould, lol, just a piece of scrap for visualisation.

    Cheers Adil

  8. #8
    Sounds like similar resin/filler mix as would be used for epoxy granite CNC machines, remember years ago reading about cast (in situ) concrete bass horns,think yours are probably going to look a bit prettier...

    You`re a lot different from the Russ Andrew`s corner of the audio market ,genuinely trying out new methods and materials, remember to cryo treat the binding posts though :-)

    Remember your trials with Strike originally , to see you turning out stuff like this now helps spur some of us on who feel they were getting a bit stuck, really inspirational., though personally unlikely to be making high end epoxy granite speakers any time soon

    Can add a second vote for a quick video about aligning parts.

    Thanks

  9. #9
    Thanks a million guys! Really appreciate the comments. Its a brilliant feeling watching anything being made on the CNC but this one was particularly rewarding.

    A huge, HUGE thanks to Dean(Jazz) too. I'm about a year ahead of the curve thanks to all his advice and various parts he's made for me when I was struggling because of Strike CNC. Not many folks have the time to do that and it speaks volumes about his character. Top bloke! He might be a grumpy bastard at times but its his right as a yorkshireman lol He's forgot more about CNC's than I'll ever know. Thanks mate.

    I'll be doing a load of two sided wave guide parts soon using the same method so I'll keep the camera handy to show what's going on and post back here.

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