1rst build, time to do next step

[njhussey]

There are two areas that look like they need strengthening on that design. The bed plate needs support otherwise it'll bounce and flex like nobody's business and you'll get a crap finish. Can you not just use the profile as the base and put profile laterally across under the bed plate to stiffen, seems like there's an awful lot of empty height under the bed plate?

The Y axis plate also looks like it needs a length of profile or two behind it otherwise it might also flex when cutting in the middle of it.

Hope this post doesn't sound negative, just a couple of observations :)

[Gytis]

There are two areas that look like they need strengthening on that design. The bed plate needs support otherwise it'll bounce and flex like nobody's business and you'll get a crap finish.

Hello Neil,
I just forgot to mention that now I working on Z axis, and this table top sitting just to see what travel I need in the Z or how low bed has to be.

Sorry for confusing you

Gytis

[m.marino]

Okay you want to build an all round Gantry router to cut up to aluminium. Lower your bed and re-enforce it as suggested though don't over do it too much (we DIY folks do tend to over build). I would strongly, strongly suggest putting the Y axis screw behind the gantry beam if at all possible. it reduces issues with swarf and makes lubricating it much, much easier.

Go looking through the build logs as I know there is some very good designs there. You don't have to use any of them but they do give a very good head start. Also I don't see allowances for cable paths; that is something you really want to think about now. later it will bite your back side and cause issues (I can think of a few members who can tell about the headaches of wiring gone wrong).

Jonathan is correct that at that length 1610 will do you well and you can always work with the pulleys to get the resolution you want.

Good luck and keep asking questions.

Jonathan, Gecko are good equipment and they stand behind their warranty as more then a few folks have proven. Yes, they are a bit costly but they are serious kit for some one wanting a business level ROI (return on Investment). Next you will be telling me my Leadshine AM882's are over kill. Horses for courses.

-Michael

PS Contrary to my long absence I have not died nor fallen off the face of the earth just been very very busy.

[Gytis]

Good luck

this is what I really need now

Thank you Michael

[Gytis]

Hello,

OK guys, this is my new gantry and Z axis, I hope I'm in right direction this time to have a strong gantry? I'm just worry now about the weight, now solidworks showing 70kg.,
this is not too heavy for motors 380oz(2.68Nm?)?

Thanks in advance!

[JAZZCNC]

Presuming this is all ALU plate.?

Quite a bit of unnecessary weight on there.?
Don't need inner and outer gantry sides or spacers between them. They add very little extra strength only excess flab
Don't need the all the Motor plates etc sitting on gantry side and could just mount motor on inside above screw and thru gantry side if single gantry side.
Don't need the piece that Y axis ballscrew fastens too with small change of design.

The cross piece that rails sit on still looks like single piece of Alu with no bracing.? This is the major weak area which will flex under cutting conditions.
I've built a gantry using plate like what you seem to be wanting which is very very strong. With just a few changes it's half the weight and much stronger and lot neater. It protects the ballscrew and motor by completely encasing it. See pics of it part built and Cad model.
Actual Design was modified to Cad model and ballscrew raised and Motor brought inside gantry connected to screw with timing belt.
Pics of actual machined parts are only for visual purposes.!! IE ballscrew sat on offcuts to show rough position with quite a few pieces like bearing plates and strengthening braces missing.

There's also braces inside the Gantry which are not shown in Cad or pics. The Z axis motor mount is also different and doesn't use upstand pieces shown in Cad instead using a solid 2 piece machined spacer part which covers belt/pulley.

Hope this helps.!

[Gytis]

Don't need inner and outer gantry sides or spacers between them. They add very little extra strength only excess flab
Don't need the all the Motor plates etc sitting on gantry side and could just mount motor on inside above screw and thru gantry side if single gantry side.
Don't need the piece that Y axis ballscrew fastens too with small change of design.

Thank you for pointing it out!

Well, now I have redesigned gantry, this time I took JAZZ ideas (hope you don't mind JAZZ?),
not yet finished but you can see general idea.