1rst build, time to do next step

[Gytis]

Nope don't mind at all, only show what I don't mind being plagiarized.!!

Come on JAZZ!, show your secret projects

Slot will probably need lifting (or lowering).? Reason being chances are you won't find a timing belt short enough to keep slot in middle and still fit motor in.

I left slot in the same position, just lifted ball screw up as you suggest, I think now there is enough space (in the model now fitted T5-20 tooth pulleys)

Would use BK/BF not FF/FK blocks mounted straight onto rear of front plate then you can get rid of those plates. Will also make assembly much easier.

I did it, now both sides BK fitted. It really makes difference in assembly, and less machining in the parts.

With rear covers Instead of 3 flats I'd consider having a nice Arc so single piece of plate bends and follows it's shape instead of 3 separate plates.

well, arch is nice but I followed the angle of side plate, that's why I made braces like this shape, 3 plates is just in the model, in real life it will be in 1 piece (I hope).


Thanks for the useful tips JAZZ !

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And finally, one question:

timing belts width 15mm or enough 10mm ?, pulleys T5 or different?

Thanks to all !

[JAZZCNC]

Come on JAZZ!, show your secret projects

Could but then I'd have to kill you ALL.!! . . . And I actually do like some of you so I'm doing it to protect the innocent. . .

And finally, one question:

timing belts width 15mm or enough 10mm ?, pulleys T5 or different?

15mm and T5 . . . Don't go less than 18T on the pulleys and I find 20T the best for belt life and fitting etc.

[Gytis]

Could but then I'd have to kill you ALL.!! . . . And I actually do like some of you so I'm doing it to protect the innocent. . .

I do not want to know any more your secrets, I'll better stay in safe side

15mm and T5 . . . Don't go less than 18T on the pulleys and I find 20T the best for belt life and fitting etc.

I was almost right in this direction

Thanks JAZZ

[irving2008]

Could but then I'd have to kill you ALL.!! . . . And I actually do like some of you so I'm doing it to protect the innocent. . ..

oh, which of us do you like then Jazz? :D

[JAZZCNC]

oh, which of us do you like then Jazz? :D

Could tell you Irving but then I'd have to kill you all to protect my self. .

Hi Irving,

I almost sure that you are right, but it will be my first built CNC (so I'm trying to do my best as I can)
what I know about screw and ends?

only one,
fixed + fixed ends its much bater than fixed + floated
(it will eliminates wipping and increas the speed ?)

Thanks for input !

Completely agree with Irving. Fine for industrial machines using servo's with high feed rates 25m/min+ and heavy loads but here the only difference you'll see is less cash in your wallet.!!
With DIY building you'll gain more performance by concentrating on build quality and careful alignment of screws/motors and linear rails than using Industry standards.

One thing wanted to point out which catches new builders out is to think carefully about bolt hole location and fastening of brackets etc.?
Often the obvious place to fasten something is completely the wrong place which makes assembly a right pain in the arse.

IE: You have the Y axis ball-nut bracket (thru slot) fastening from the front side of Z axis rear plate. Doing this means you have to remove front plate from Z axis to access those bolts or drill access holes in it.
You need this bracket to have some adjustment to make alignment with Y axis ball-nut easy and doing this from front and thru a hole will be a pain so would be much easier if it bolted from the rear into tapped holes in the Z axis rear plate.
It's simple things like this that make building and setup just that bit less painful.! . . . Unfortunately finding these things out often comes from building the first machine and at worst case scraping a few parts learning on first build.

[Gytis]

Could tell you Irving but then I'd have to kill you all to protect my self. .

Fine for industrial machines using servo's with high feed rates 25m/min+ and heavy loads

This will be my second CNC with these feed rates

You need this bracket to have some adjustment to make alignment with Y axis ball-nut easy and doing this from front and thru a hole will be a pain so would be much easier if it bolted from the rear into tapped holes in the Z axis rear plate.

You mean like this (see pics) , just drill a bigger hole in the bracket for adjustment ?

Unfortunately finding these things out often comes from building the first machine and at worst case scraping a few parts learning on first build

I understand this and I'm ready for this (to scrap few parts, especially with my tools)!

Thank you guys

[Gytis]

HI,

this is my almost finished CNC machine model,
bed is from the aluminum extrusions (heavy) 90 x 45 and 45 x 45, it will cost me about 800 eu + delivery?, only for the extrusions!
overall dimensions (bed) is 1590 x 1250 x 590 mm.

[JAZZCNC]

Wow your really making that harder and more expensive than it needs to be.? Also has a flaw.?
First I'd use Steel for the frame and save 600eu.!! . . but that's not what I mean here.?

Orientate the side profiles on there edges and you'll gain strength and be able to do away with those aluminium braces and the 2 long middle profile, then Extend the 3 uprights to meet top rail.
Put the ball screws on the outside and make drop brackets part of gantry sides, sides will be shorter than drop bracket, less material,weight,money. Easier to setup and adjust screws/motors has they are more accessible. Then you can line the inside walls doing away with the slot and stop crap hitting the screws completely.!! . . . . Your way has a BIG flaw in that it will allow chips into the sides, still hitting screw and eventually filling up the sealed cavity.
You'll be constantly cleaning it out and believe me it won't take long to fill the void between middle profile and slot. Chips spray in a linear direction off the cutting tool and that Gap is in direct firing line so you'll be surprised just how much disappear thru it.!. . . . Kid you not Bet I could fill that gap with alu chips within 3weeks and that's allowing for sizeable percentage not hitting slot gap.!!!!

One other thing.?. . . If those bed supports are 45x45 then I think you'll find there not strong enough at that length and allow bed to potentially bow in centre when cutting or plunging. My suggestion is to put 2 or 3 45x90 on there edge for main supports and make rest up with 4x45.

Sorry to keep pulling at your designs but with experience these things just jump out at you and I'd feel shit if didn't mention them, then at later date you came back and said wished I'd done this or that which I'd spotted.!!