Cutting PCB’s - recommendations, tools etc

[C_Bubba]

I do mine same as Hank up to the point of getting it out of Eagle.
Here, I use the pcb-gcode.ulp to create the gcode files directly. Then I run Daedelus's Autolevel program to take care of variations in height and run these programs directly on my router. First doing the "etching", then drilling, and finally the Milling to remove the board.
You can use your favorite units system directly with no conversions needed.

[HankMcSpank]

I do mine same as Hank up to the point of getting it out of Eagle.
Here, I use the pcb-gcode.ulp to create the gcode files directly. Then I run Daedelus's Autolevel program to take care of variations in height and run these programs directly on my router.

I use CNC-USB (vs Mach3) as it has this Z probling/correction feature built in.

You can use your favorite units system directly with no conversions needed.

Can you add a bit more meat here? (not fully understanding what you're getting at ...do you mean with gerber conversion? I convert gerbers from imperial to metric as I've not found a way of getting Eagle to export gerbers in metric yet! That said it's only a 30 second overhead to do the conversion)

[C_Bubba]

I do NO gerber output. Pcb-gcode directly exports gcode file(s). You can set it up to do files for top and or bottom for drilling, etching, milling etc. It will do it directly in metric if that is the unit system that you have chosen to use.
As your system has "warp", the files will be ready to run. No further cam work will be needed.
I don't think there is a pp for your controller yet, but it should not be to difficult to massage one of the existing ones. I personally use Turbocnc and have mangled the heck out of the stock pp's:})

[Fivetide]

I’m only actually cutting the PCB’s out after they have been manufactured; luckily my board size is 48 x 92 so If I get two prints on a single 10 x 10cm I will get two boards out of them. But the corners are rounded and I have to get the board right up to the ends of the tin because some parts go through the metal, so I’ll cut the shape out, should look good hopefully and if my calculations are correct Scotty! Will cost 89p each.. bargain!

[HankMcSpank]

I do NO gerber output. Pcb-gcode directly exports gcode file(s). You can set it up to do files for top and or bottom for drilling, etching, milling etc. It will do it directly in metric if that is the unit system that you have chosen to use.

Ok, now I get your approach - I prefer having the whole engraving, cutting/drilling CNC aspect in one layered CAMBAM file (vs loading up separate g-code files into a CNC app to do a full pcb job), that why I export a gerber from eagle & bring the track outlines into cambam - I also found the pcb-g-code a bit restrictive (I need to get deep down & dirty with all my parts! For example sometime I need to mill out a bit of waste copper to aid soldering (& avoid bridges) - I can do that easily & see the results prior to going to the CNC machine if I have all aspects of the job in one central app.

[booski]

If you want a perfect, fantastic circuit board that is cut really well, I suggest you use something called Autoleveller. AutoLeveller - The height adjusting CNC software

Using a simple probe system like a croc clip attached to your machine, you can use your tool to probe the height of your PCB before cutting to get an accurate cut depth.

Simply get your g-code file from whatever your CAM output software is, import it into Autoleveller and it will automatically, based on your variables, edit the g-code to include a probe system before routing the board.

It is very clever and completely free.
Personally, I donated a fiver to the software designer as it's one of the best pieces of software I have used for cutting circuits.

[Fivetide]

booski , when you say a simple probe what do you mean ? What do you attach the other end of the croc clip to ? I couldnt see any notes on actually setting up the hardware on the site .

[HankMcSpank]

booski , when you say a simple probe what do you mean ? What do you attach the other end of the croc clip to ? I couldnt see any notes on actually setting up the hardware on the site .

The cutting booski refers to is achieving a constant depth (thereby catering for bulges & valleys on your copper board as it isolates your pcb tracks)...that's what autolevellers do.

i use CNC-USB (which has autolevelling built in), but there are other flavours out & about (indeed there was a thread discussing one that a memeber here had done a week or two ago)