Steel frame cnc router design/build

**JoeHarris** · 10-08-2013

I recommend this archaic video if you are learning to stick weld...
www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWdgEaXWDxQ

**CraftyGeek** · 11-08-2013

Originally Posted by JoeHarris

I recommend this archaic video if you are learning to stick weld...
MMA welding (welding institute) video guide - YouTube

That's a great video - just watched it all the way through...i'll probably watch it again before having a go myself.

**JoeHarris** · 11-08-2013

Only trouble is how easy "max" makes it look to get a perfect weld!! I was more than a little disappointed with my first couple of attempts!

**JoeHarris** · 13-08-2013

[QUOTE
Most of the frames I build are a mix of welded and bolted like these pics below. ( Frame only here no Bed, it's adjustable) [/QUOTE]

Jazz, do you mind explaining how the bed adjustment holes work on the frame pictured. It looks like you have another tapped plate or something inside the RHS? Cheers
joe

**JAZZCNC** · 13-08-2013

Originally Posted by JoeHarris

Jazz, do you mind explaining how the bed adjustment holes work on the frame pictured. It looks like you have another tapped plate or something inside the RHS? Cheers
joe

Yes there's a 10mm thick plate with holes tapped it.The holes in legs are drilled oversize for clearance. The 10mm plate is tacked in place to hold.

The main bed frame is heavy so there's 4 lead screws (2 each side) to help lift up and down and roughly get into position. Then there's 8 angle plates(4 each side) fastened to bed frame with 2 holes in each so 16 Bolts total that bolt into uprights with 10mm tapped plates inside.
It's simple and easy thou to be honest it's not something you do very often has usually you'll settle on a position that allows 90% of what you want to do.!. . . . It's just nice having the flexibility to do oversize things when needed.

**JoeHarris** · 16-08-2013

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Yes there's a 10mm thick plate with holes tapped it.The holes in legs are drilled oversize for clearance. The 10mm plate is tacked in place to hold.

The main bed frame is heavy so there's 4 lead screws (2 each side) to help lift up and down and roughly get into position. Then there's 8 angle plates(4 each side) fastened to bed frame with 2 holes in each so 16 Bolts total that bolt into uprights with 10mm tapped plates inside.
It's simple and easy thou to be honest it's not something you do very often has usually you'll settle on a position that allows 90% of what you want to do.!. . . . It's just nice having the flexibility to do oversize things when needed.

Cheers. What thread are those then? I think I read somewhere that you favour m5 due to number of threads but they look bigger? What do you tend to use for plated connections?

[reason I ask is my 4.2mm bit is knakered and I'm looking at replacing it with a taper bit as my chuck is not the best... If m5 is not the way to go I may not bother just now..

Joe

**JAZZCNC** · 16-08-2013

Originally Posted by JoeHarris

Cheers. What thread are those then? I think I read somewhere that you favour m5 due to number of threads but they look bigger? What do you tend to use for plated connections?

[reason I ask is my 4.2mm bit is knakered and I'm looking at replacing it with a taper bit as my chuck is not the best... If m5 is not the way to go I may not bother just now..

Joe

They are M10 Joe. I only use M5 for linear rails where they tap direct to steel box. Most other stuff like Z axis then M6 or M8 depending on plate size.

Wouldn't use a taper drill for threads there not accurate enough really, Ok for general holes.

**CraftyGeek** · 16-08-2013

On the x-axis I am going to use 2 leadscrews with a single motor.

Ok - i'll draw up a revamped steel gantry...I have a slightly revised approach in mind now...i'll be back with a design for you to tut at later :-p

**JoeHarris** · 16-08-2013

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

They are M10 Joe. I only use M5 for linear rails where they tap direct to steel box. Most other stuff like Z axis then M6 or M8 depending on plate size.

Wouldn't use a taper drill for threads there not accurate enough really, Ok for general holes.

Thanks Jazz, What about where you are joining the various sections of the steel frame together? I am going to be tapping directly into 3mm wall steel for most of my connections...

**JoeHarris** · 27-08-2013

If you can get over the annoying accent there is a guy on YouTube called chucke2009 I think who does some handy trouble shooting videos on stick welding. I found them useful anyhow. Practice is key though I think...