Thread: Wobblycogs CNC Mk2
Hybrid View
-
22-08-2013 #1
Ah ah your officially Addicted . . . .At your first meeting the words to use are " Hello my names Wobbly and I'm an addict" . . .Welcome to the club.!!
Now regards the changes then your making it worse not better.?? . . . Distance from Ballnut to Z axis rear plate is too much and that long bracket will flex and resonate.
I'd just flip the plate to front and cut a slot in it and mount ball-screw on back side so the distance is less, your also protecting the screw and motor. Stick another thin plate on rear and it's fully protected and helps stiffen gantry.
Don't go with your current design you'll regret it in this form.!!
-
22-08-2013 #2
Yep, I'm completely addicted now. Work is suffering, I'm getting no sleep, the bank manager thinks there's been a robbery...
Lol, when I was drawing that long connection bracket I could hear you in my head saying "that's too long" :-D
As an alternative to mounting the 10mm plate on the front of the gantry could I instead mount the ball screw on the gantry supports like this and put a thin (5mm?) plate with a slot on the front? That gets the screw closer to the z-axis back plate and the gantry gets the full support of a 10mm plate on the back.
I've had to significantly increase the size of the base to accommodate the new rails. I can't really afford a full sheet across the whole base but I've added corner supports all around the bottom and the top has 200mm wide plate running the full length. All plate is 10mm thick and will be thoroughly bolted to the 45x90 heavy extrusion.
I actually feel like I didn't do to badly with the redesign if I only needed to move the screw, perhaps there's hope for this machine yet
-
23-08-2013 #3
Yes you could no problem but you'll get more support for gantry from that plate if it was on front has the rails will be fastened to it and can't flex in the middle. Has it is now the Box in the middle could flex has the only support is on the back side and the rails applying all the pressure are on the front side.!
You'd be better with it on front and either another thinner plate across back adding bit of support or 2-3 10mm plate braces across back.
-
23-08-2013 #4
Hold on.!!! . . . . You are having gantry sides aren't you.?? . . . .Your not planning on having it open like those pics show are you.?
I just thought you where showing it like that to save drawing them.!! . . . If not having sides then your in trouble and this won't work very well.!
Edit:
Ok on looking again it's not that bad but think it would be benefit from gantry sides has it would help stiffen things up. Also it would make a better stronger connection to the ballscrew.
Sides and the plate on front would make it quite bit stiffer with less flex.!
The way you have it now this would need beefing up anyway.Last edited by JAZZCNC; 23-08-2013 at 12:36 AM.
-
23-08-2013 #5
One beefed up gantry with added sides. Now I draw it I can see this is significantly stiffer than what I had, I was relying on the 10mm plate not bending along it's weakest axis, doh!
As you suggest there will be 3*10mm thick plates on the back with the rest covered with a thin sheet. The front will be a full 10mm sheet with a slot for the ball screw. Feel free to imagine bolt holes all over the place ;-)
Thanks again for all the help.
EDIT:
There you go it's drawn up
Last edited by Wobblycogs; 23-08-2013 at 08:44 AM.
-
23-08-2013 #6
It's close very close but not quite Carling.!!. . .Lol
Gantry's fine but those drop brackets for X axis ballnut mounts are too flimsy so make bit wider at top and beef them up a bit and your there.!
-
23-08-2013 #7Gantry's fine...

I've bunked off work for the afternoon to do some CNC design so I'll get those x-axis brackets beefed up a bit. I'm also swapping the ballscrew and stepper around inside the gantry (so the screw is at the top) that way the slot is further from the chips.
I've been reading a few posts of yours regarding aluminium machining. I'm going to have a crack at using my circular saw to cut most of the pieces and then clean up with a router bit. I've tried routing aluminium in the past but only 5mm sheet. It went well but I'd agree with you it was scary at first.
I was also having a read up on pulleys. I've got 9mm 16 tooth on there at the minute but I think I'll upgrade them to 15mm 20 tooth (all HTD5). Will a 15mm pulley (like this) mount cleanly onto the shaft of a typically 3Nm stepper? I'm just a little concerned because the L dimension on the pulley is 26mm and the shaft of the stepper seems to only be 16 to 24mm long depending where I look.
P.S. Bloomin' love this design by the way. Once I have my workshop built I think there might have to be a bit of creative copying for CNC number 2
Thread Information
Users Browsing this Thread
There are currently 8 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 8 guests)
Similar Threads
-
BUILD LOG: Wobblycogs CNC Mk1
By Wobblycogs in forum DIY Router Build LogsReplies: 91Last Post: 02-01-2013, 07:38 PM




Reply With Quote
Bookmarks