Sturdy and Fast all Steel CNC , my first build

[njhussey]

I'm no expert (I seem to weld every 4 years or so) but what I did was cut the pieces to length, dry assemble the uprights and the main frame outer pieces then put either one tack or a couple of tacks on each piece.



Then I got a square and spirit level and made sure all was as good as I could get. I then tacked in the bed braces..



I then checked all was square again before starting to add the angle braces...



I then checked that the uprights were still square and all was good and then started welding the uprights. Now here I confess I didn't do it in small short runs spread out round the frame like I probably should have. I just did it in one or two runs per weld (50mm long welds as using 50x50x4 box)



I then checked to see if all was still square (otherwise the angle grinder would have to come out!) and then proceeded to weld up the rest of the welds. I didn't do it in any particular order (it was pretty random) and then after finishing the frame (but without the X axis rails welded on) I checked all the frame was still level and the uprights were still 90° to the bed.



I then offered one X axis rail up, clamped it with F clamps roughly level and then referencing off the frame rails and tacked it as parallel (using a digital bevel box) as I could. I then put lots of tacks on it, checking in between that it hadn't moved, and then once cool I welded over the tacks in one go.



I then did the same for the second rail checking for parallellness (is that a word?) in both directions with the first rail as a reference but also checking the second rail against the frame to make sure it wasn't out. I then did the same weld procedure for the second rail and it turned out pretty square and parallel....probably more from good luck than skill!

[Neale]

All pretty obvious, then - the kind of "obvious" you only see when someone's pointed it out!

Thanks for the idiots' guide (and I'm the welding idiot, just to make it clear!).

[njhussey]

All pretty obvious, then - the kind of "obvious" you only see when someone's pointed it out!

Thanks for the idiots' guide (and I'm the welding idiot, just to make it clear!).

I knew what you meant......I also class myself in the category of welding idiots. I just put it together and once I was happy it was square I wacked the welds on regardless of putting too much heat (see told you I was a welding idiot!!) in to the frame. I seem to have got away with it.....so far!!

[JAZZCNC]

To be honest it's not rocket science but the Welder your using does make a difference to some degree.

Arc or MMA welders put a lot more heat into the steel than Mig or Tig so it's a good idea when using Stick to keep runs shorter and spread them around but keep balanced. By balanced I mean if you weld Left side of material for 1 " then weld right side 1" at same time before moving to another spot.

For general steel work then Mig is best has it's relatively quick and easy to learn but it's not has cheap has stick to buy equipment.

Tig is best for controlled heat but it's slow and more specialised and expensive so I wouldn't use it for steel frame work. (unless using MMA option)

Just for building a one off frame and keeping costs down then MMA(Stick) is best has it's cheap to get setup and not too difficult to learn.

Just remember bird shit can be scrubbed away so tis is true with welding and grinder is your best friend. . Lol

Welding and Epoxy leveling make steel frames very easy and cheap to achieve.

[Neale]

Welding and Epoxy leveling make steel frames very easy and cheap to achieve.

That's what I'm hoping!