Warco Major CNC build log

[Robin Hewitt]

I don't really do 'excited' anymore

I think I have to fit this top section then fudge to connect it to the quill.

Once it's all bolted together and moving I can measure the fudge and get precise dimensions for the honking plate.

Robin

[irving2008]

Robin,

Been watching this with interest as I want to do the same to mine going forward, although not sure my engineering skills are up to the challenge yet.

I am still struggling to understand how the Z-mechanism will work. Does the 'honking plate' clamp to the quill flange under the head and, if so, where does the remainder bolt to on the head itself. What is the advantage of that over motorising the quill handle itself?

On the X-axis, I can understand why the motorised element sticks out so far to allow more X travel, but again, how is that better than driving the handwheel end? And could it be done without it sticking out so far as this would give me space problems?

I know Kip has done something similar.

I've yet to strip it down and draw it all up to work out how to do it, but just starting to do some planning for later on this year.

[Robin Hewitt]

Hi Irving

Let's not forget that trying to screw this kind of accuracy out of a Warco mill/drill puts us deep in to the realm of silk purse and sow's ear. Silly has already been left way behind

Motorizing the Z axis handle would be much more in keeping with the machine, but you would never push the boundaries that way.

Would you like to have the z-axis I'm ripping out? It's much the same as the one that's going in but a lot less beefy and made without the benefit of cnc.

One more set of pics and the operation should become clear.

Robin

[irving2008]

Hi Irving

Let's not forget that trying to screw this kind of accuracy out of a Warco mill/drill puts us deep in to the realm of silk purse and sow's ear. Silly has already been left way behind

Motorizing the Z axis handle would be much more in keeping with the machine, but you would never push the boundaries that way.

Would you like to have the z-axis I'm ripping out? It's much the same as the one that's going in but a lot less beefy and made without the benefit of cnc.

One more set of pics and the operation should become clear.

Robin

Robin,

I'd be happy to get a reasonable degree of accuracy, not interested at pusing the boundaries at first. Cost is still an issue, but if i am going to invest a few £100 in ballscrews etc. I need to be comfortable I know what I am doing and I have a reasonable chance of success.

I may well be interested in your old Z-axis... its still likely to be an order of magnitude better than anything I can produce (yet).

[Robin Hewitt]

Robin have you given much thought to the "hammering out ceremony" once the ballsrew is attached?

I'm doing it the same way I did last time, the screw housing bolts to the honking plate. Only difference is I'm using 2 screws this time instead of one. I think it needs a bit extra to lock the screw parallel to the quill.

I may well be interested in your old Z-axis... its still likely to be an order of magnitude better than anything I can produce (yet).

Not exactly pretty but you can have the X and Y screws if it helps They are cluttering up the workshop, probably going in the bin next time I tidy the shelves. If I find a box I could send the whole she-bang standard parcels.

I bought zero backlash nuts from Marchant Dice for the X and Y, odd things that you had to crush sideways to set. I never got the backlash below 3 thou. Also I didn't get the ends machined, just glued on extension sleeves with Loctite. With the benefit of hindsight, a false economy.

The Z axis was a disappointment, nice screw off ebay but I didn't eliminate flex and it always fell slightly short of the mark. I'm hoping the honking plate will fix that.

Robin

[irving2008]

I'm doing it the same way I did last time, the screw housing bolts to the honking plate. Only difference is I'm using 2 screws this time instead of one. I think it needs a bit extra to lock the screw parallel to the quill.



Not exactly pretty but you can have the X and Y screws if it helps They are cluttering up the workshop, probably going in the bin next time I tidy the shelves. If I find a box I could send the whole she-bang standard parcels.

I bought zero backlash nuts from Marchant Dice for the X and Y, odd things that you had to crush sideways to set. I never got the backlash below 3 thou. Also I didn't get the ends machined, just glued on extension sleeves with Loctite. With the benefit of hindsight, a false economy.

The Z axis was a disappointment, nice screw off ebay but I didn't eliminate flex and it always fell slightly short of the mark. I'm hoping the honking plate will fix that.

Robin

Robin,
That sounds very generous of you, if it would get me up to speed quicker and allow me to create updated parts later then that would be great. How likely are your Major parts to fit the Minor ?

[Robin Hewitt]

Pic 1: Cheeks put in with a couple of bolts. Needed a bit of extra removing from the left cheek because the casting was far from straight. Heavy application of the angle grinder at the bottom before the ball screw bearing plate would slide home, had to cut out an extra 7.5mm

Pic 2: Ball screw fitted, view from the side. This is as close as you can get the ballscrew to the quill. Hence requirement for honking plate.

Pic 3: Pile of bits removed, Irvings' if he wants 'em

Should have taken a front view with the ballscrew installed. Maybe next time.

Next I have to relieve the cheeks a tadge so I can fit the motor plate, bit of a poor measurement there.

Then make a false honking plate, cut the pulleys and wire it up so so I can make a real honking plate

Robin