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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by Greeny View Post
    Cant find anything of those sizes

    All I can suggest is
    2.125 + 2.250 + tube of epoxy
    2.375 + 2.500 + tube of epoxy

    Massive contact area, so would be a very strong bond
    Quote Originally Posted by irving2008 View Post
    Ummm... But they do need to slide... And epoxy won't stop them bending under load!
    Sorry not being clear ( or more likely I'm not understanding the problem)
    I meant glue two tubes 2.125 + 2.250 together to form a composite thicker stronger tube
    and glue two tubes 2.375 + 2.500 together to form a composite thicker stronger tube.
    these two thicker stronger tubes will now slide over each other.

    Cheers greeny
    Last edited by Greeny; 07-09-2013 at 02:41 PM.

  2. Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Machine a bushing on the lathe and push it in the end of a tube to get the right size?
    Could do, but all the load would be concentrated at that point and would lose some of the benefit of the combined bending resistance of the two parts together.

    Quote Originally Posted by Greeny View Post
    Sorry not being clear ( or more likely I'm not understanding the problem)
    I meant glue two tubes 2.125 + 2.250 together to form a composite thicker stronger tube
    and glue two tubes 2.375 + 2.500 together to form a composite thicker stronger tube.
    these two thicker stronger tubes will now slide over each other.

    Cheers greeny
    Ah, I get you. Could simplify construction...

    In the meantime, using Phill's suggestion of 25.5mm steel tubing/19mm rod I have come up with this:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Uses two tubes with cross plates welded just below top (leaving room for locking collars, not shown) and at bottom. The T-shaped foot is made of 2 bits of 3mm wall 100 x 50 bolted together with 3mm angle and flat plate joining pieces (not shown) and the tubes are bolted into the foot from the side (2 x M8 bolts each side, not shown) and the bottom cross plate bolted into the top of the foot (4 x M8 bolts, not shown).

    At the top, 2 x 19mm rods are welded to a cross plate which bolts into the underside of the upper units 10mm walls using 4 x M5 bolts and also sideways through the rods into the walls of the unit using M8 bolts.

    Maybe able to shorten foot once I've checked C of G of whole assembly...
    Last edited by irving2008; 07-09-2013 at 05:29 PM.

  3. #3
    The link does not work for me. ..Clive
    Last edited by Clive S; 07-09-2013 at 04:56 PM.

  4. Like your 'out of the box' thinking! The legs are of no use but the pole might be, depends on wall thickness. Supporting 45kg vertically is different to doing so at an angle.

  5. #5
    Probably not strong enough and also too expensive

    Lighting Booms & Boom Stands - Lighting | Manfrotto

  6. #6
    Machine a bushing on the lathe and push it in the end of a tube to get the right size?
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  7. @FF: Yes, I'd already looked at AW but as you say, long lengths :( I only need 600mm or so of each size. Been looking in eBay for offcuts but nothing suitable seen so far. Also there's no info on size tolerance so hard to tell if one fits inside the other or how well. Yes it would be possible to skim the outside of the inner tube, tho not many have a lathe that can do 600mm between centres on a 50mm tube. Not sure how you'd skim the inside on that length as you implied.

    The steel tube/rod approach as drawn has the advantage of a simple welded/bolted construction. Large dia aluminum tube will need a 'plug' of some sort thus adding to the cost. Also there are plenty of examples of 20mm steel rod and 25mm x 2.5mm steel tube on eBay.

    Now I've done the c of g calcs the foot can be reduced to 500mm long and 500mm wide (from 700 x 650 as drawn).

  8. #8
    If you wanted oval tube , why not take round tube and squash it in a press brake?

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