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  1. #1
    m_c's Avatar
    Lives in East Lothian, United Kingdom. Current Activity: Viewing Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has a total post count of 2,964. Received thanks 368 times, giving thanks to others 8 times.
    DC is different.
    For cheap motors, old treadmills seem to be the way to go, combined with a KBIC speed controller.

    Unless you really are trying to do the conversion as cheap as possible, I wouldn't use anything other than a KBIC, as they're quite popular, reliable, and not that expensive to buy new. I run a KBIC in my little lathe, as it came with a DC set-up and a dead Cheetah drive, and a KBIC was the cheapest main stream option I could find at the time.

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  3. #2

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  5. #3
    I've still got the 600W DC motor and associated electrics from my Warco WM 16 if you're interested?

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  7. #4
    Thanks Birchy.

    Yes, i am interested

    Ray
    Last edited by manofgresley; 12-09-2013 at 10:52 AM. Reason: Update

  8. #5
    Just a note perhaps better to remove the email because of spammers and do it via PM instead ..Clive

  9. #6
    Hi again

    Thanks for tip on spamming. How do i send a PM ?

    Ray

  10. #7
    If you look at the top of the page you will see a link for (My Profile) if you click on that you will find the link to send private message. ..Clive

  11. #8
    manofgresley: I'll take some photos later and PM you.

  12. #9
    Here's a couple of pictures and a video of the motor running. Note that when increasing the speed, the motor "kicks" in about 2 or 3 spots through the speed range. It doesn't do it when reducing the speed. Not really sure why it does that but it's always been the same from brand new. I'm guessing it's a characteristic of the Chinese copies of the KB boards? It's never caused a problem as the motor runs smoothly if the pot is turned slightly past the "kick" point. Can anyone advise on this?


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    Last edited by birchy; 13-09-2013 at 12:41 AM.

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