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Have you thought how you will access the mounting bolts on the Z rail blocks (4.jpg) it looks like the Y rails blocks will restrict them. On another point it seems like you are use angle iron for the rail blocks (Y) are you sure that they will be at true right angles and that the inside edge is flat and parallel to the outside edge. ..Clive
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01-05-2014 #2
Aluminium angle is a lot more accurate than steel so maybe you could use a thicker section aluminium angle instead.
Do you need the full Z travel ? if not I would move the Z Hiwin blocks further apart.
Also now is the time to work out where your cable drag chain (energy chain) will sit, you'll need three lengths of the stuff and will need to know the lengths, bend radius, internal dimensions.
Looks like it's coming together nicely.Last edited by EddyCurrent; 01-05-2014 at 09:14 AM.
Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
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02-05-2014 #3
Yes this will be an issue according to these plans but the above plans are only for giving a general idea about the machine. Specific issues ( as the one that you have mentioned ) i think will be solved with small conversions. As for the iron angles the most possible scenario is to have them perfectly milled or use aluminium angles that are more accurate.
According the plans z axis rails are 400mm the ballscrew (full length ) 501mm carriages distance (outer side 200mm) . That will give z axis a full travel of 200mm. May be ( if that will make the construction better) i will put the carriages at 250mm distance and reduce the full travel to 150mm.
Question 1
The above conversion worth the effort ?
Question 2
Also I would like to say that I choose to put the Y axis ballscrew at the front of the gantry in order to have the ballscrew as close as possible to Z axis and at the same time having the ballscrew exposed to the off cuts of the spindle.
Is that correct ?
Question 3
Do you think I will need a second side plate at both edges?
Thanks for your timeLast edited by ba99297; 02-05-2014 at 12:21 PM.
The creative adult, is the child who survived
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02-05-2014 #4
Maybe you could put some figures in the stiffness calculator and find out, http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/linear...html#post15791
Question 2
Also I would like to say that I choose to put the Y axis ballscrew at the front of the gantry in order to have the ballscrew as close as possible to Z axis and at the same time having the ballscrew exposed to the off cuts of the spindle.
Is that correct ?
Some people put a plate over the front with a slot for the ball nut bracket, you could fit these to the slot, Toolstation > Ironmongery > Draught Excluders > Heavy Duty Brush Strip
or keep it like it is and use two of these to keep swarf out Machine Bellows - Arc Euro Trade
Question 3
Do you think I will need a second side plate at both edges?Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
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02-05-2014 #5
Roughly in order of priority...(i.e. in order of how much I expect these changes will impact the overall stiffness of the machine:
- The thin plates the linear bearings are mounted on are definitely weak points.
- Keep the Y-ballscrew where it is - it's well positioned. Moving the ballscrew to prevent exposure to swarf is totally the wrong priority - just guard it if necessary.
- The spacing of the bearings on the Z-axis is a bit low - bear in mind the deflection of the linear guide system is proportional to that bearing spacing squared, so every little helps.
- Try to compact the Z-axis to reduce overhang - by making cutouts in the plates you should be able to avoid putting the rails on spacer strips.
- The Z-ballscrew could be made shorter if you want, but it doesn't really matter.
You only need the adjustment slots for mounting the X-axis linear bearings to the gantry at one side - on the other side you could use normal holes and mill a reference edge for the bearings to rest against. That will help slightly with getting things square. It's also a good tactic for the other axes - particularly Z in your design.Last edited by Jonathan; 02-05-2014 at 02:22 PM.
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07-05-2014 #6
Jonathan i agree with you but i must leave at least one small cutout in order to be able to work with the ball screw and also in order to pass the ballnut . How thick plate(steel) plate should i use? At he above plans the plate is 10mm. Also i want to say that i put the ballscrew near the bottom of the gantry and not at the middle, in order to have the ballnut as close to the collet as possible. Is that correct?
The creative adult, is the child who survived
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29-06-2014 #7
Hi guys.
I come back with some final questions before I go on with my machine.
Next week the hiwin profiled rails and carriages will arrive so I will have in my hands all the pieces so I can laser cut the steel and aluminum plates, and the box section tubes.
First I want to say that the machine frame will be made from 80X80X4 steel tubes.
Here is a general overview of the machine
I I wont use a movable cutting surface as I first had in mind. The cutting surface and the clamping system will look like this.
On the 80X80X4 steel tubes I will weld 80X40X3 vertical pieces and between them 40X40 tslot aluminum profile. On the 80X40X3 steel tube, 19mm plywood will be bolted. If there is any comment I will be glad to hear it.
Now regards the gantry it will be made from 2 80X80X4 tubes(in the middle ) and 2 120X60X4 tubes (up and down) welded together like this. At the back side of the gantry all the tubes wont be in the same plane. The 80X80 tubes will exceed 2cm to make space for the ball nut mount flange.
The ganty will be welded and then bolted straight to the hiwin carriages ( after I apply epoxy at the bottom side of the gantry ).
And now I come with my questions.
The clearance (after Deans suggestion ) from the lower point of Z to the cutting surface is 180mm. The travel of Z is nearly 130mm. When z axis is at its lowest point the situation is this
That means 6mm from spindle choke to the cutting surface.
When z axis is at its higher point the situation is this
That means 136mm from spindle choke to the cutting surface.
Is that Ok?This is very critical for the machine construction as any mistake here will need frame reconstruction. Generally is there rule about what is the distance from the choke to the cutting surface when Z is at its lower point.?
Finally i want to ask about resonane. Is it better to use these red plates
Or it is better to use a 80X80 tube to connect vertialy left upper side of the frame with the rights upper side of the frame
Thanks for your time and i will be glad to hear any suggestion
VagelisLast edited by ba99297; 29-06-2014 at 10:06 PM.
The creative adult, is the child who survived
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29-06-2014 #8
Hi, I don't think it is a good idea to weld the hiwin carriages if that is really what you mean .G.
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29-06-2014 #9
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29-06-2014 #10
Hi Vagelis,
I answered some of your questions in my build thread. here is what i think for the other ones.
Your solution seems very nice, man i like it. May be will implement it in my next build. But the plywood thing i don't like. Will constantly need resurfacing if you make precision stuff.
better would be some scrap plastic sheets from doors or whatever found at the Junk yard. And on top-sacrificial layer of expanded PVC plastic sheet. Quite cheap.
What spindle /KW?/ will you be using at the end? That make protruding things longer or shorter.
Also have in mind usual 1/8 bit is 10-30mm long, usual 1/4 bit is 20-40mm long, the piece that is not in the collet i mean.
This is best i believe:
What about doing longer than your table stuff?
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