Hybrid View
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30-06-2014 #1
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30-06-2014 #2
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22-07-2014 #3
#2 I think you could do with some triangulation horizontally to stop twisting but apart room that it's looking good!
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22-07-2014 #4
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22-07-2014 #5
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23-07-2014 #6
Like that...but hopefully with better welding...Last edited by njhussey; 23-07-2014 at 01:11 PM.
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23-07-2014 #7
Or like this;
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/6565-...2425#post52425Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
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24-07-2014 #8
New photos of the progress
Yesterday i cut the steel and the aluminum pieces for the bed
I install a winch at the roof , as the weight of the table is big ( nearly 140 kgr so far) to handle with my hands
I turn the table upside down to full weld all the joints
I remove the middle piece as i change my plans. Another three pieces will be welded vertical to the sides of the machine
I put temporary the steel and aluminum pieces of the bed to get an idea how the machine will looklike
Solid works is very good but the real world even better.
I will use epoxy for the rails level but i try to be as precise as possible.
I chek the level of the table and the results are very good
I use two diagonal threads that they just touching each other ( that means the orners are at the same level)
Also i use a digital level that shows RELATIVE ANGLE between the diagonals 0.0o.
If you see the videoa the absolute angle is 2.0-2.1. That is not a real mesurement as the level fall from my wifes hands and has an offset 2.0o. That is not matter as what maters is the relative angle
Here are the videos
Last edited by ba99297; 24-07-2014 at 03:44 PM.
The creative adult, is the child who survived
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24-07-2014 #9
Coming along nice Vagelis. Don't waste too much time on trying to level just yet until your ready to do the epoxy leveling. Removing twist is important and it looks like you are doing a good job here.
I would put some more supports under the Bed. Even thou your using steel it will resonate if it's not supported in the middle. I would put 2 more pieces in there.
Also like as been said braces in corners to help keep square won't hurt.
Much nicer feeling building than designing isn't it. . .Lol
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24-07-2014 #10
Thanks for the comments.
Even so far everything is ok i had some issues wtih the gantry and i want your opinion
I plan to build the gantry with 2 pieces 120X60X4mm and 2 pieces 80X80X4mm so i would make sometring like that
Plan A
but i realize that the 120X60 tube is 3mm and not 4mm as i thought. So i think that i may have resonance issues.
TO be more specific at the front of the gantry 10mm steel plate will be welded so finally it will become like this
Plan B
With 2 pieces of 120X60X3mm tube at the top and the bottom and 4 spacers 120X60X3mm 160mm long
Plan C
Two 80X80x4mm tubes at the top and bottom and a 120X60X3mm at the middle. May move the 120X60 tube 2cm to the back so to have room for the balnut flange
All thre plans will have the front 10mm steel plate as shown at plan A
All three palns have 280mm gantry height
Plan D
Three 80X80X4mm tubes with the middle tube offset by 4cm to leave room for the ballnut. This will reduce the gantry height to 240mm and i dont know if it will weaken the machine.
So my questions are
1. which of the above plans would be better?
2. Assuming i will put the rails at the front do you think i can reduce the gantry height ( according to my plans it should be 280mm and nearly this should be the distance between the out face of the carriages of y axis). Plan D reduces the gantry height to 240mm. Remember that the length of the gantry is 1160mm.
Thanks for you time
VagelisLast edited by ba99297; 24-07-2014 at 11:01 PM.
The creative adult, is the child who survived
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