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08-05-2016 #211
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A general purpose Lithium 2 grease will do just fine:
A Premium quality mineral oil, lithium thickened lubricating grease suitable for general purpose applications in plain and anti-friction bearings.
Conforms to leading bearing manufacturers specifications for general purpose industrial and automotive grease.Last edited by Lee Roberts; 08-05-2016 at 01:38 PM.
.Me
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06-01-2017 #213
Hello everybody and happy new year
I reastart my project that has been stoped for more than 6 months
I finally epoxy level X axis and i will do the same with the y axis (the gantry) as the milling of the gantry wasnt as good as i expected
I will apply two layers of epoxy 4mm each.
Many off you may wonder why i go with two layers of 4mm instead of one layer 5mm.
To be honest this is the second try of epoxy level the gantry
The first try went wrong
It wasn’t the resign as i had no problem with the x axis leveling
The reason off the first fail was this
After having the gantry milled there was a 3mm groove for the master rail.
At the first epoxy try the groove had been covered with epoxy so the epoxy had 5mm thickness above the groove and 2mm thickness next to the grove. i don’t know if i am understood.
So at the second try i choose to cast two layers. The first one will cover the groove and cover the 3mm gap and the second one will be layed on a flat surface.
Today morning i start with the first layer
First i put the gantry lay on the x axis blocks as x axis is perfectly leveled after the epoxy method
I zero my dial gauge in order to level the gantry parallel to X axis.
The 1.9 degrees tilt that the gauge show is a permanent error after an accident
In order to achieve perfect level tuning i use some screws as jacks
I knew that i couldnt have zero level at every point of the gantry as the gantry is not true flat. I was trying for an average zero level.
All the previous night i use an electric heater to rise the temperature to 20-21 celcious
Today morning i start creating the dome
I use both mdf and foam
Here is the epoxy i use
More than 10 hours working time
300 mpas viscosity
Pot life 29 hours (70 ml at 23c)
and here is the data sheet
http://www.resoltech.com/IMG/pdf/DS_...21.07.2016.pdf
Price 36 euros
Thanks for your time
Will be glad to read your comments
VagelisLast edited by ba99297; 06-01-2017 at 11:50 PM.
The creative adult, is the child who survived
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09-01-2017 #214
48 hours at 20 co after casting the first epoxy layer (4mm thick) is sticky and starts hardening.
Today morning 8-1-2017 I apply the second layer (also 4mm thick)
Things seem to be ok.
The epoxy is transparent and clear as glass
After full curing I will upload photos.
Mean while (until the epoxy hardens) I will start working on Z axis
VagelisThe creative adult, is the child who survived
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09-01-2017 #215
Make sure you let it cure for at least 10 days if you have made a sample mould then when you try and bend the epoxy it should snap like glass and not bend.
Not sure why you need 8mm thick?..Clive
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
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09-01-2017 #216
Thanks for your answer Clive
I know that 5mm thick is enough but as i said,"...After having the gantry milled (a process that went wrong) there was a 3mm deep groove for the master rail.
At the first epoxy try the groove had been covered with epoxy so the epoxy had 5mm thickness above the groove and 2mm thickness next to the grove. So this uneven surface may cause the failure of the first try. That is why I decided to go with two layers casts. The first one will cover the big error so that the second one will do the level job better. I don’t remember where, but I had read that in some way the epoxy follows the initial surface and corrects a big part of the surface error, but not all the error.
That is why i choose to cast two layers (4mm each).The creative adult, is the child who survived
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The Following User Says Thank You to ba99297 For This Useful Post:
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09-01-2017 #217
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09-01-2017 #218The creative adult, is the child who survived
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20-12-2017 #219
Yet another bloody post i spend reading for it to hang dead lol, How did it go for you in the end?
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The Following User Says Thank You to reefy86 For This Useful Post:
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31-12-2020 #220
Big restart after 4 year
This is the second BIG RESTART on a project from 2014. I hope that this will be the last restart
Glad to be back to mycncuk. I have this project running since 2014.
In my last post back to 2017 I was “epoxy leveling” the gantry
Epoxy correct most of the error BUT checking the carriages with straight edge I found out that the rails are twisted (I don’t know if my English are correct). So shims should be used.
I wander if everyone that uses epoxy method ever check the machine against straight edge?
It was a painful process but I learned a lot about shimming
Some photos of my progress till now
Just to remember some basic specs of the machine
Cutting Size 750X1200
Ballscrews x,y axis 2010 z axis 1605
Gearing 1(motor):2(ballscrew)
At first I was planning using three motors (one each axis X,Y,Z) so I bought a set of three Yaskawa servo motors 400 watt, one of them with brake. After many suggestions and advices I finally bought another 200watt Yaskawa for Z so I have
2 X400 watt for x axis (long)
1X400watt (the one with the brake) for Y
1X200 watt for Z
Here is a picture of the motors
My main concern is if 200 watt servo with 1:2 gearing and 1605 ballscrew is enough to handle z axis that is nearly 25-30 kgr (assuming that gearing and ballscrew pitch will 4X the torque of the motor)
Last days i work on attaching the ballscrews so I can mount the motors and see what pulleys and belts I have to order (htd5 15mm wide). Are the Chinese ebay pulleys ok? Do you have any reliable supplier. Do I have something to be carefull. Here is my last progress
So i repeat my questions
#1 Is 200watt servo enough for z axis
#2 Pulleys and belts.a) What to be carefull about, b) reliable supplier
Thanks for your time
VagelisThe creative adult, is the child who survived
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