Stell frame cnc 1500X1000. Adjustable table your opinion please

[ba99297]

Hi everybody
Here is my last week progress
Firstly i get the bolts and the steel pieces laser cutted last Friday


In order to save money i didnt laser cut the holes ( wherever needed ) except the straight slots. I just ask to point the center of the holes
So i use these centers and then i drill the holes



At the following photo you can see two pieces that will be bolted together. The upper piece will be welded with the gantry tubes and then it will be bolted with the lower piece. The holes of the two pieces should be excactly coeficient so i drill the upper piece an the i put the one piece over the other to mark the ceter of the holes

After pointing the centers i had to drill the holes. That took me A LOT OF TIME. Even more time i need for the tapping


Today i start the adjustable foot construction. Syliavski suggest me not to put that foots. Even if i use them or not they are very usefull to level the table as perfect as possible for the epoxy method. You will see each foot has 4 holes. The one at the center is for the bolt the other two ( the smaller ones ) are to bolt a softer material at the side of the foot that touch the ground. The fourth hole is for bolting the foot at the floor




Then i lift the table with the winch and put the foots


After that i go on with the tapping. Too much time but the result was more than good

After i bolt the side parts i start to work with the gantry. I put the two side braces on the table and then i attach the vertical 10m plate.

If you can see the stell plate has two projections ( left and right ) that will "sit" at the side braces so that the distance will be driven by these slots. It is something like a tagram.


Then i use long bolts to "tune" the gantry


At the follwing video you can see how everyhing joined nice

At the above photos you cant see the gantry tubes, as i put them later. But you can see them at the follwing video where i make a level test


This is my progress so far. Tomorrow i will bolt the front steel plate at the tubes and weld the tubes with the internal side plates

Thanks for your time
I will be glad to here your comments

Vagelis

[EddyCurrent]

The laser cut parts look great, I like how the holes have been marked with both a centre and an outline of the hole. This is good engineering practice and I don't know if you already know this but if the drill moves off centre this is how to bring it back into line;
If the outline of the hole had not been marked you would not know if the drill had moved off centre.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESWzx3YBo3g

[JAZZCNC]

This is good engineering practice and I don't know if you already know this but if the drill moves off centre this is how to bring it back into line;

Nah good engineering practice is to do it right first time and use a proper spot drill not some poxy pin prick mark.!!

Looking Good Vagelis don't drop it on your toes mate. . .Lol . . . . . .Drilling & Tapping 100's of holes in 10mm steel is good for building character and stamina needed to setup and run CNC machine. .

[EddyCurrent]

Nah good engineering practice is to do it right first time and use a proper spot drill not some poxy pin prick mark.!!

That is correct but it's not what I said.

I said, ". . . the holes have been marked with both a centre and an outline of the hole. This is good engineering practice . . ."

I know this because I have served a proper engineering apprenticeship when things were done right.

[ba99297]

One small problem
I phone the supplyer of west system resigns here in Greece and he told me that for 105 resign he only has the 206 hardener and not the 209 ( that is recomended by the members here in my cncuk). Do you think that i can do my Job with the 206 hardener and not the 209. The temperature here in Greece is 32-35 and nearly 25-30 at my worklace.

Thanks

[Clive S]

One small problem
I phone the supplyer of west system resigns here in Greece and he told me that for 105 resign he only has the 206 hardener and not the 209 ( that is recomended by the members here in my cncuk). Do you think that i can do my Job with the 206 hardener and not the 209. The temperature here in Greece is 32-35 and nearly 25-30 at my worklace.
Thanks

I have used the Wests System and spoken to them a couple of times. I think you really need the 209 as it has a very slow cure and that is what you need for the resin to level out. I purchased mine here : http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/ not many suppliers appear to stock it but can order it for you. ..Clive

[Boyan Silyavski]

I agree, i don't see how it would be done without the proper hardener.
I purchased mine from http://www.dansonmarine.co.uk/ and he shipped 2 packs to Spain for 17GBP for 3-4 days.

Maybe buy locally the epoxy and purchase only the hardener, have to check with them though.

For the Hiwin 20 rails the minimum width of the epoxy should be 40mm, that leaves 10mm each side of the rails, cause epoxy rises like 5mm near the edge. I made mine something like 5mm high. Used magnets 4.5mm thick at both corners both sides, to check visually whats going on and make perfect 5mm height


About the laser cut pieces, i dont see why they would charge more for the holes. I ordered mine with holes, that's was the whole point, to save time drilling precisely. Even the 4mm holes were perfect.