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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by hacklordsniper View Post
    How should i test this motor? Its same as motor allready shown here. Should i open it up and test Hall sensors?
    There will probably be 3 main terminals, you should check the resistance between each one and they should all read the same.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  2. #2
    2 months of trouble, but started working tonight. So i removed the motor, powered the hall board with a bench power supply and tested the output of them, all of them worked ok. I measued ressitance to ground and between terminals, it was ok. I tried insulation tester and all windings seemed to be ok. I tried applying DC to terminals and all of them slightly moved the motor.

    I reinstalled the motor again and same thing happened. While starting the motor ON/OFF switch gave 6 flashes and went silent. As i was speaking some rude words to it i pressed the on button few times in series and motor started. Now it works ok. I tried for research purpose to disconnect motor terminals and it again gave 6 flashes and go out. After pressing on button 3 times in row, the PCB "resets" and it works nicely afterwards.

    I guess the PCB goes to somekind of protection mode after the motor has been disconnected, and 3 pushes of the ON button reset it. Even the manufacturer does not know this (or does not want to tell).

    Im attaching a picture for this PCB as future reference if someone will google this situation in future. Furthermore i will give discovered procedure for adjusting speed range. Pressing the lower button on small PCB you adjust the maximal speed with speed pot, and pressing the upper button you adjust the minimall allowed speed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #3
    Holly sh.t !!! i discarded the whole crazy system because of lack of information about this reset procedure…. thanks to "manufacturer" who doesn't KNOW or even worse doesn't TELL ( it is not written in the documentation provided ) and who probably "prefers" to sell control boards ( +1000e ex vat ) AND motors ( +1000e ex vat )
    So PM for spare parts to bargain ( 1 motors plus 2 boards )

  5. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by BILLYBOUM View Post
    Holly sh.t !!! i discarded the whole crazy system because of lack of information about this reset procedure…. thanks to "manufacturer" who doesn't KNOW or even worse doesn't TELL ( it is not written in the documentation provided ) and who probably "prefers" to sell control boards ( +1000e ex vat ) AND motors ( +1000e ex vat )
    So PM for spare parts to bargain ( 1 motors plus 2 boards )

    Do you have the pneumatic changer on your Optimum mill? If so i would be interested to buy your boards

  6. #5
    Sorry, i havn't this option

  7. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by BILLYBOUM View Post
    Sorry, i havn't this option
    Thank you, i guess the board is not very compatible with my machine. It can also be seen there is much changes on my version of board.

    Does not matter, i would anyway buy this boards for study and repair. I would not buy motor tough, so if you want to sell me this PCB-s, please write to my PM

  8. #7
    jmx's Avatar
    Lives in XXX, France. Last Activity: 07-02-2023 Has been a member for 1-2 years. Has a total post count of 1.
    Hi all,

    I've just created an account on this forum for DIY enthusiasts.

    Sorry for BillyBoum, but i had identical issues with a BF30, of the same manufacturer.

    IGBT burnt due to enclosed box, and, this is true, a layer of insulating material, between IGBT tabs and heatsinker !!!!!!!!!!!



    DONT TRY TO REMOVE AND RESOLDER THESE PARTS, YOU'RE GOING TO GET SAME DISCREPRANCIES.

    Sorry English guies, i'm not really fluent in your language, so i'm going to reply in French to BillyBoum.

    Bonjour BillyBoum,

    Comme indiqué ci dessus, tu dois avoir - je me permets de te tutoyer - les IGBT qui sont partis en fumée!!!!

    En fait, le refroidissement est inexistant - boîte fermée - et les pattes supérieures des IGBT - le tab dans le contenu du dessus - sont isolées du radiateur, par une matière isolante...

    La solution, c'est de refaire une carte de A-Z, ou de passer sur VFD et moteur monophasé ou tri de 2 Kw.

    Bonne soirée quand même.

    jm

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