Thread: How to get this finish..?
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Wal Another fine job as usual but only 85% you are slipping
..Clive
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know
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08-08-2016 #12
Heh, cheers Clive. Yeah, I need to work on the technique with this method - I'll get there eventually...!
Wal.
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30-08-2016 #13
Finally had a bit of success using the pressure tank - it still leaks but using the compressor as a remote tank keeps it topped up for long enough to do its job. Bubbles sufficiently minimised - well , I can't see any... It's still important to prod the epoxy into the nooks and crannies - the pressure won't force the epoxy into any left-over voids in corners, as I discovered on an earlier test piece.
The MANTIS badges have been belt-sanded flush, I did attempt to polish one of 'em but the finish was rather patchy - heh - it's difficult to get a decent consistency across a larger surface using small mops on a press-drill... smaller stuff (like the skulls) come out a treat, though.
Wal.
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01-02-2017 #14
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02-02-2017 #15
I do quite a bit of resin filling, the resin I use is as thin as water until it sets and I have no trouble getting it in to the finest detail, I apply my resin using a dropper and a syringe for very small detail. I work mainly on glass and stone but it works equally well for metal, Can be baked in an oven as well for fast curing.
The resin is 2 part and i can adjust the opacity and colour using colourants, also get some very good effects using colours as you would a water painting.
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02-02-2017 #16
Interesting - thanks for the tips guys. I've heard about flashing the epoxy with a blowtorch after pouring - not tried it as yet, but warming it up seems like a good idea. Alboy, what resin are you using? I use the stuff from Cookson Gold and it's pretty thick stuff - certainly too thick to apply via a syringe. Currently I'm using a cocktail stick and dripping the resin in off the point - and then using the point to push in to the nooks...
Wal.
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