Giant 20' x 3' x 2' router build

[EddyCurrent]

I though Charlie had been advised which switches to use, but anyway for inductive proximity switches my advice would be 3 wire NPN, this is a useful thread Charlie; http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7723-...0012#post60012

[JAZZCNC]

I though Charlie had been advised which switches to use, but anyway for inductive proximity switches my advice would be 3 wire NPN, this is a useful thread Charlie; http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7723-...0012#post60012

Unlike most Bob's the Csmio I/O's are not restricted on switch type or a set voltage/current so can use any Logic so PNP or NPN doesn't matter. NPN or PNP both do the same job they switch a circuit, just one sinks and one sources and the Csmio inputs accept either.
For instance input one could use PNP @ 6V and Input two NPN @ 24v provided they both have there own voltage source.

This one reason why it's used so often on retro fits as it can use Odd ball logic and voltages of Bespoke controllers etc.!

[irving2008]

There are 6 in total 3 home 3 limit all pnp nc each one has a common + and - up to a junction box on the gantry were they go off on there own each have there own separate input wire on the csmio . the main wire is a 12 core cy screened and earthed at the control box all running on 24v

many thanks

So active low signal (i.e. break = limit/home hit), wired as per page 19 of the CSMIO/IP-M user manual?
.
I have to say I doubt line capacitance is an issue at the CSMIO end. CY cable is 75-150pF/m so looking at 900 - 1800pF for 12m. So when switch opens that 1800pF has to discharge through opto-isolator/resistor. Assuming standard 10mA opto current, series resistor is 2200ohm, so fall time is approx 6uS worst case. One simple & quick test would be to put an additional 2200ohm 1/2W resistor to ground at the switch end of the cable (or even a couple in parallel). This will discharge the capacitance faster and will reduce the effective capacitive load on the switch. Try that first...

[EddyCurrent]

Watching the video more closely, when the plugin filter is reduced to 1 (video at about 2:49min in.) the switch works as expected but the auto reset won't work. So it looks to me like it's the input filter setting that is causing the problem with switch not triggering. The issue is then, why does it not reset when the limit override is selected.

From the manual.

"5. If the machine has entered the hardware LIMIT switch, you can leave it by switching on the Settings screen "OveRride Limits" button. It is also convenience to switch "Auto LimitOverRide" - this will cause that while the raid on SW limit switch the machine will stop , but you can click RESET and le ave the limit switches without any additional operations."

Is it saying that "Auto limitoverride" is for software limits (SW) ? and "Override Limits" button is for hardware limits ?

Charlie, set the input filter to 1 or zero and see what this "Override Limits" button is.

[charlieuk]

Whew you set it to low when you hit the limit and then hit ether of the over ride buttons it triggers another e stop straight away so it it making it to sensitive. Like I said though when you shorten the wire it's fine and but I'm sure at one point I did have it going as is. We have some new switches to try so will be giveing that a go later

[Blackrat]

I was just thinking you need more surface area in the foam block .or the dowel will press into the foam .... So machining a bigger circular shape provides this larger surface area

[charlieuk]

I see what you mean I was thinking the dowels could be quite long and go almost all the way through the block, i think it would be stiff enuf then if I used large dowels. It doesn't need ultra high accuracy anything less than 1mm would be very nice. I'm kinda hoping the method I find i can do with out having to change cutters which is a huge 5"x 1 1/4 bullnose or spend too long having to machine things to set up. I think we are on the right lines though

[charlieuk]

I have been doing some more test cuts with the machine, yesterday I was doing a cut and a bolt on the z axis rail came a fraction out and cased a jam however I was pretty quick at stopping it and I don't think there was any damage.

However today I have had a error come up that I think I have had before in that the z axis is getting a Stall Detection error on it ie 5 red flashes on the driver ( it is a leadshine em806 hocked up to a nema23)

This does not happen straight away it has been maybe 40 min into a job and the z axis has totally stopped, luckily it has stoped at a point were it has not ruined anything yet however I cant find any mechanical problem that would have caused a stall and I can re set the driver and all is ok again but odiously that's not a cure.

so first I need to figure why it is triggering the stall detection? any ideas????

then second is there a way to hock up a signal to go to e stop if this happens for any other reason. ( I have yet to look into this)

so a little confused at the moment, could it be more noise?

many thanks charlie

[Clive S]

I think this can happen if the acc is set too high you can set the driver to send out an estop so that the complete machine will stop if any driver goes into fault. I think the signal has to be set up in the software of the driver. I am sure Dean will pop up with the correct way to do it. ..Clive

[JAZZCNC]

I think this can happen if the acc is set too high you can set the driver to send out an estop so that the complete machine will stop if any driver goes into fault. I think the signal has to be set up in the software of the driver. I am sure Dean will pop up with the correct way to do it. ..Clive

Spoke to Charlie about other issue and why but you never mentioned the E-stop.!! . . . So Charlie it's easy enough to do. Tony will understand what to do.
The drives have fault output that you use to control a relay which is inline with the E-stop.
The fault signal Logic can be programmed in the drive so can be configured to suit your needs.