Giant 20' x 3' x 2' router build

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Charlie I've recently experimented with a 120mm PC radiator and fan with small PC pump with reservoir and it worked a treat thou I didn't cut with it for long and but did leave running at full speed for 6 hours and it hardly got warm.
I'm going to fit to my own machine and do some real world testing cutting aluminium when I get chance but don't hold your breath waiting.
If you want to try it then I'm 99% confident you won't have any troubles for what your doing and it will be very neat and travel with the spindle.

i have never heard of a pc water pump so put it in good old ebay and got this,thinking about it once the water is moving gravity will help it keep flowing especially if its a closed loop of water or with a small reservoir

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SC-300T-DC...item3f3c57e7e4

Originally Posted by charlieuk

i have never heard of a pc water pump so put it in good old ebay and got this,thinking about it once the water is moving gravity will help it keep flowing especially if its a closed loop of water or with a small reservoir

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SC-300T-DC...item3f3c57e7e4

That's the sort of pump I used with less than a gallon tank with no problems but on your machine it might be better to have the pump etc on the z axis to get rid of the long hoses. You can buy a radiator for about £12 from China http://www.aliexpress.com/item/CPU-w...975245718.html Remember winter is coming so antifreeze is a must. ..Clive

Cheers thanks I will get one and see how it performs the silicone tube I have seams to get realy cool to the touch when it's full so try it and stick a thermometer in there. I will put a small amount of anti freeze in but it's in a well insulated room with that doesn't ever get down that low so no real worries of freezing many thanks

To be honest I reckon if you use one of the wide Rads with twin 120mm fans then you'd get away with it no problems. Only reason I'm trying single 120mm Rad with fan is so can incorporate into Z axis cover and keep it all together but light at same time. Test's so far seem to show it will work and wit wide Rad so twice the cooling then I'm 99.9% sure it will work.

Edit: I even tried it with convection using no pump and while it worked felt it just not quite good enough.!

Been playing about with a few bits like mounting the screen to the wall , putting the vfd screen on the out side of the box and also found a good use for round rail supports to make nice solid simple mounts for the proximity switches over my slightly crude aloy boxes.

I'm having a few problems with my home and limit switches, I had a similar problem the last week but managed to sort it by adjusting it through the input signal filters in the csmio plug in however now I can't find the happy medium I found last time the video should explain the rest.

Charlie are you using shielded wire for the cable back to control box and is the sheild earthed just one end inside the control box.?
Also is the machine frame earthed to same earth point.?

You have long wire runs so they will act like antenna picking up any noise so you'll need to Eliminate this really before you'll get any joy.
I would also try a differant switch you maybe have poor switch with slow components giving slow reaction times.?

What do you have debounce set to in Mach3 General Config ?

Yes it's all shielded at one end the Ali frame is directly bolted to the floor the moving part of the gantry though may not have any sort of ground unless it can travel through the Hiwincarriages. The problem seams to effect all switches. I was wondering about replacing a switch but wire it straight to the csmio ? Would it be best to disconnect the rest of them if I did that?

Originally Posted by EddyCurrent

What do you have debounce set to in Mach3 General Config ?

Zero would this be the same as the filter in the csmio plug in or have the same effect ?