laser cutter/engraver rebuild build log

[calida]

Need your brains!!!
I've got a cheapo laser cutter and am having problems with it....anyone around Derbyshire /Manchester way I could pay to help fix it? Or even a few miles out I'll cove cover travel of course. Please help me :(

[gavztheouch]

Started making the frame today out of 100mm box section. Not much else to say.

[gavztheouch]

Little update on the laser build. Finished welding the basic frame and have made a start on the movable table/z-axis. My laser will be a little different as usually a laser table is raised and lowered via four screws, one in each corner. My design is more like a knee mill with one large linear bearing and screw. I am relying on the mech being stiff enough to resist twisting. The large linear bearing was originally a secondary z-axis carrying a 5hp router on a big cnc router so it should be up to the job. There is only one bearing in the picture, but I have two to prevent twisting.

[Boyan Silyavski]

Nice, cant wait to see that finished. So you are making it a kind of like 3d printer? The bed i mean. But whats the purpose behind that? Different height, big entire objects for cutting or engraving?

[gavztheouch]

Nice, cant wait to see that finished. So you are making it a kind of like 3d printer? The bed i mean. But whats the purpose behind that? Different height, big entire objects for cutting or engraving?

Exactly that yes, if you want to laser thick foam or engrave a deep box you can drop the table. Some machines also have a fixed focus lens so you use the bed to focus the laser at the right height. My laser has an adjustable head but the table will be handy for larger items.

I am trying to simplify the z-axis/table cause the normal way of doing it looks complicated. Google it to see what I mean. Mine is more like a knee mill, I plan to use a car sissor jack to move the knee/table.

[gavztheouch]

Laser cutter z axis linear bearing mount - After drilling the holes on the bridgeport mill I used this metric tap guide and a m8 tap to thread the holes in the plate. I am a little disappointed in how well the tap guide works, there is way too much slop in the guide to hold the tap straight. The guide itself is very well made just not snug enough. I guess this is due to most taps from different manufactures being a slightly different size, so it would be difficult to make a system like this that works with them all?

[mekanik]

IF you have a lathe, next time make a sleeve with a hole a nice fit on your desired tap, and a nice fit in one of your bigger holes in the jig.
As a rule i usually centre /drill & tap all @ the same setting, ie without moving the setup but you could use your dial or digital readout to do the same, after your holes are drilled put a centre in your spindle to locate in the end of your tap and everything should be square, if you have a digital readout, much more better.
Regards
Mike