Coolant, I am not sure which one to go with.

[m_c]

I can't think of ever meeting any woman called Steve...;)
.
Don't Triacs come with flood coolant?

[GEOFFREY]

I can't think of ever meeting any woman called Steve...;)
.
Don't Triacs come with flood coolant?

Why not, most of us have heard of a" boy called Sue", but I do agree an earlier post signed off Steve. G.

[Robin Hewitt]

Robin is a girls name, just because you can't see the pony tail in my avatar doesn't mean it isn't there.

[Hallettoil]

Hi all

For anything Model Engineering..go for a semi synthetic

Assuming Suesi has a sump and equipment to handle a soluble....go semi , I would suggest that normally, Model Engineers use their equipment in more of a hobby time rather than a business time. I raise this point, for coolants do not "stand" very well..I'll come to that in a mo..
The disadvantages of milky "suds" or coolants are that they are predominantly oil based 80%. When mixed, they turn milky in the same way that Cows milk does and it is the refraction of light that gives this "colour". It has now become and emulsion but an Oil in Water emulsion.
At this stage I will mention that WHEN you mix these products ALWAYS add the oil to the water. This allows the oil molecule to "coat" the water molecule...do it vice versa and instead of the coolant protecting the machine and workpiece the coolant is now an invert emulsion and will likely rust the machine and anything near it! Water coats the Oil. I should say..that I have never observed this but was advised by the boffins :-)

Now when the coolant is "standing"...like any water that stands it becomes a breeding ground for bacteria ....the rest you will know.
There was a mention of slideway oil. Anyone using either a slideway oil or other and is using coolant...the oil will find it's way into the coolant and in use the coolant emulsifier will emulsify a percentage of the oil. There will come a point, if not changed, the oil will float and the bugs will have a field day...then it will stink. I use that word because it's orrible. IF it ever goes this far...you really must sterilise the whole system but use a proprietary system cleaner...not bleach!! Water, bleach and metal just do not mix!!

Therefore...a semi synthetic, having a LOW oil (20%) makes life very difficult for bacteria to get a foothold whilst giving enough oil for machine protection. Other "additives" within give better machineability. It will stand for much longer periods.

When you have coolant in the sump...any coolant.. just circulate in the machine every now and again...say every few days or so...this will enhance the life of the coolant.

It is very unlikely, unless anyone is doing copious amounts of grinding (again use the semi) to use a fully synthetic.

There is nothing wrong with milky coolants as long as you know their limitations AND there is no reason why any of these products can be applied either by the proverbial washing up liquid bottle or the nippers water pistol!

Always ensure that the workpiece material has compatability with the lubricant/coolant

Always observe health and safety with any of these products, use a "water" barrier cream...don't be bashful and keep you hands out of washing up liquid..Use rubber gloves for the latter...that's NOT an excuse for NOT washing up!

I hope that this little guide will be of some use

Richard

[suesi34e]

Hello Richard,
Many thanks for the help and info here. My machine is down at the minute as the power to my workshop kept on tripping with just the angle grinder or the normal power tools, waiting for the sparke! One I have the mill back in the land of the living and some time to use it I will place an order for coolant. I will be sure to read what you have mentioned several times over as I learnt a lot.
Many thanks
Suesi

[JAZZCNC]

I can't think of ever meeting any woman called Steve...;)

All I'll say is Fleetwood Mac.!!. . . . . But ye I didn't see the Steve before, don't change what I said thou. .

[suesi34e]

Hi m_c

My one has a reservoir and pump and I think just need the coolant, and a bit ofluck in getting the machine going I hope the pump works!

All the best

Suesi

[Robin Hewitt]

I have never noticed one soluble oil was better than another, I usually tack it on the end of an order for something else to avoid carriage. Currently using Multi-Cut G which does seem disinclined to rot.
Modern suds pipework usually ends with one of those bendy hose things that stays where you put it and a nozzle.
You will need splash guards to catch suds. As soon as suds hits a spinning chuck it goes everywhere.
Two nozzles are better than one, coming at the tool from opposite directions.
The cheap Chinese bendy hose leaks if you stray not very far from straight.
If you use a nozzle you need to filter out everything that will not fit through that nozzle, I use Koi carp water filter bags..
You will need a Wet'n'Dry vacuum cleaner with a crevice tool to empty out your T slots between jobs.
Your suds return hose will block, put a brush over the entrance before you hit it with a blowgun or get a face full.
As the level in your suds tank goes down you will top it up with water, try to remember that eventually you will need to add more oil.