Aluminium cutting

[JAZZCNC]

Hi AGTM,

Problem most DIY users here wanting to cut Aluminium is spindle power or lack of it.! Most are using router based machines and spindles with high speeds but little torque with typical 2.2Kw.
So DOC=1xd on 6mm cutter with WOC=1xd is mostly impossible with the spindle torque they have available.! Then you have the stiffness of the machine. Again being router based most are flimsy in comparison to even the weakest milling machine so chatter and poor finish dictate using much lower feeds/DOC etc.

I may give your cutters a try but I mostly use smaller 4-8mm cutters. Again due to spindle power but also material saving when nesting parts.
I'm a big believer that when it comes to tooling cheaper cutters are uneconomical as they wear quickly and put more stress on the machine not to mention much poorer finish quality.

Also I feel most people use the wrong tool for the Job, like not using a ripper for roughing.? Often this is down to the fact they don't want to change tools so will use one tool to do the whole job. This again is False economy because with a cerated edge ripper you can cut far deeper and remove far more material in fraction of the time without wearing the tool away or stressing the machine/spindle.
Also they don't actually save time by not changing tools it actually costs them time and money because the smaller tool cutting at lower DOC takes much longer than any tool change. Plus the tool and machine are getting hammered because they are working much harder than they need to.
On top of this Finish quality is lowered because by the time they get to the end of the job the tool cutting edge is so worn finish is poor. They don't realise that by using rippers and then just doing a finish pass they actually save money because time is reduced and tools last much longer as they are cutting efficiently and they get a much better end result.!

That's my take on it. . .

[AGTM]

Hi JAZZCNC,

I agree completely with you about the written above. You mentioned that you use 4-8mm cutters. I want to send you one Speed Tiger AUE to give it a try. Let me know what diameter would you prefer. You can go on the contact us page in my web site and give me your address.
Next week I will start a new thread named "Solid Carbide Cutting Tools - what we know and what we do not know about them"
There will be a few posts as I will start write first about the carbide grade of the tool.

Otherwise it is Friday here, a time for barbeque and beer.

I'll see you next week here.
Have a great weekend. Cheers.

[JAZZCNC]

Otherwise it is Friday here, a time for barbeque and beer.

That's just cruel as it's pee-ing it down here.!!! . . . . But that's ok as it's offset with plenty of the finest Ale in the world. .

[Boyan Silyavski]

I find that Fz=D/100 usually too much. Especially about aluminum. Not talking about roughing bits. Tools 0-2mm is one thing, 3mm is another thing, 4-6 mm another, and so on.

I have Gwizard trial installed but some how this program doesn't engage me, may be the price and subscription put me off.
Just found the free online FSWizard and actually the data it gives is quite near the manufacturer data and very very near at my actual cutting data. So i am quite convinced and maybe even will buy the payed version

The bits i use are mainly Kyocera, razor sharp and polished. Now looking at their data below, some conclusions about how things develop with sizing and type of operation can be drawn. This is quite more realistic than others i have seen.





Vc - cutting speed
f - chip load or feed per tooth
Fr- feed rate mm/min
D- diameter of carbide bit
U- nimber of teeth on cutter
p=3.14


Ae - side removal
Ap - face removal


1.
determine spindle speed rpm/min depending an operation/roughing, slotting, finishing/


RPM=(Vc*1000)/(p*D)


2.


Calculate feed rate mm/min:


Fr=f*U*RPM

[AGTM]

Hi silyavski,

I checked carefully your post and the data which you provided. I completely agree with these parameters, but only if you do finishing. What I mean is that the roughing parameters provided in your table will be applied for finishing by me. I am working with Fz=D/100 and the tools (different range of diameters) sounds and works excellent. This is the tool: http://www.agtmcarbide.co.nz/product-category/agtm-tool-categories/aluminum-alloy-copper-alloy/endmill/aue-series/
In addition, this tool is designed for hard work and high MRR (material removal rate), but this cutter can be used for roughing and finishing as well. ST AUE has been designed for roughing, but it is doing a better finish than Kennametal.
I am attaching the manufacturer's cutting data for your reference. You will see there, that what I have recommended in my previous posts is actually low and safe. And it is because it is proven already by me.
I have sent a samples to JAZZCNC already, I will send you too to give it a try.
If you want to "make a step ahead", send me your address and let me know what diameter suits you.
Here are the cutting conditions:

[AGTM]

Hi JAZZCNC,

Your samples are on a way already. You should have them in a 4-9 days.

Cheers

[Boyan Silyavski]

HI AGTM,

The data is for general 30 degree bits, not for 45 degree specific aluminum bits , that's why we are both right

[AGTM]

Hi silyavski,

Yes, completely agree. If the bits are 30 deg I wouldn't do rough milling with them as you mentioned. They are mostly for finishing. AUE can do both.
Meanwhile, Kyocera have extremely good flat U-drills. They works pretty good on stainless.

Cheers.

[AGTM]

Hi silyavski,

Here I made a picture of AUE1203. Take a look and let me know what do you think.
I will just mention that this tool has polished front and back cutting surfaces. To be honest yes, I am selling these tools, but I can assure you from the user point of view that these cutters are better than many world famous brands, which I will not mention here.

[Boyan Silyavski]

These you show are 3 flutes and seem nice. But I believe here people/DIY, forums/ would be more interested in your AET series 2 flutes, cause they can be used also for plastic and wood, or at the long ones .



Now other thing is the price and place of origin.

Its difficult to convince people to buy something not made in USA or EU. At least me. Especially at similar prices. Thats the truth. I see many sellers /China, Taiwan, etc. / raise their prices and make them comparable to the famous brands. But reality is that a typical small business will search for discounted known brand,overstock sale, a deal or a clearance and will not buy 3rd brands.

Hell, i would not buy, even try other brand carbide router bit while Drillman sells Kyocera bits at ebay, especially at his price. I don't see how sb. could beat him especially for the DIY people market -plastic, wood and aluminum. 1-6mm. Kyocera also have representatives in Eu. Do you know why no body has ever heard of them? I will tell you. Cause they sell for 20euro the 6mm stub 2 flute that Drillman sells for 6$