Milling Machine Advice

[Clive S]

The Z axis looks like it could be converted by using a new top plate/bearing holder with a stepper/belt arrangement essentially strapped to the back of the column and abandon the "differential/bevelled gears" from the original?

This is how it was converted with the original screws using the original bolt holes for the top plate. You can see the arrangement for the Y axis with the motor under the x carriage and the X Motor using the holes on the yellow endplate.

Regarding the spindle it is the 2.2Kw W.C. I did try it at 5K but was happier with 5.5K I have my spindle set up so that it won't go down past 3.3K I cut the slot with no issues.

I suspect that all beds are different underneath so the clearance will differ. I will post when I get the x screw in place but I have to get them first. ..Clive

[Washout]

Excellent (starts looking at the budget for earlier purchase :) ).

I'll have to play with my WC 2.2Kw on my router also given your experience and see what can be achieved, though it will have to wait until I have my rotary axis working.

[njhussey]

Clive, did you not consider using a screwed ballnut instead of the flanged one?



I'm thinking of using one as I reckon I'll get away with not having to machine the bed...bit of threadlock and Bob's your uncle etc.

[Clive S]

Clive, did you not consider using a screwed ballnut instead of the flanged one?



I'm thinking of using one as I reckon I'll get away with not having to machine the bed...bit of threadlock and Bob's your uncle etc.

Not quite sure what you mean by that, The flanged boss I am using is to enable me to use the original end plates on the X bed by machining the stub off then boring the 40 mill hole out to 42mm then the the new boss can be fitted with the bearings offset by the 3mm I need to get the screw in.

The flange is in the centre of the bearing housing ie stub both ends.

Do you have a link to that screwed nut? ..Clive

[njhussey]

It's one from Zapp, if you look on the ball screw page it's down the bottom.

I presume that you're using the standard flanged ballnut like the below?



I was going to see if I could get away with one i could screw in to a 25mm (or whatever width) piece of steel that will replace the tapped existing nut.

[njhussey]

This in the inside of the front of my mill, was thinking of opening the hole where the indicator goes through the bottom, rap it for a 1605 screwed ballnut and use a 1605 ballscrew with custom bearing ends.

[Clive S]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/13/y7amuge2.jpg[/IMG]

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Neil Yes that is the type of nut, but the problem is the width of the body (round bit) hence the channel I had to cut in the bed. I will make the housing for the nut with the lug on it to bolt to the original place. Yours is a bigger machine and the Z arrangement is different. Thanks for the pics. ..Clive

[Jonathan]

Double nuts are a good idea for a milling machine - i.e. DFU1605 not SFU1605.

[njhussey]

Would two singles screwed into each side of the plate/bracket be ok?

[Washout]

Hi Jonathan
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Can you explain in short words for an old duffer like me how a double nut works?
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My guess is that there are "tensioned" in opposite directions against each other and therefore cancel out any play no matter which direction of rotation is used (can't quite visualise how though).
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Cheers
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Chris