Let the fun begin !!! ???

[PAULRO]

steel has arrived and is cut and both sidewalls are welded.


I have to string the crossbeams and tie both together.

I contacted http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk /to purchase epoxy 105 and hardener 209 but drew a blank . apparently they don't stock 209 hardener but told me the 205 or 206 hardener are very similar but for pot time and cure time. has anybody used these hardeners? i'll probably go with the 206 because it has a longer pot life but would like some feed back before i do.

i also spoke to Chai about his linear guides and rails and the preloads are as follows
Z1: 0-0.02C or Z2: 0.02C-0.05C . i'm sure either of these will do the job but would like to know which preload is the preferred choice for wood routers.

[Clive S]

Paul I contacted ecf as that is where I purchased mine from they don't stock it but they can order it, but they will not deliver it out of the country. Here is a chart that will show you the difference between 206 and 209 (page 3) http://www.paynesmarine.com/document...0Adhesives.pdf as far as I can see the 206 cure time is about 9 to 12 hours and the 209 has a cure time of 12-24 hours but the 209 is recommended in hotter conditions. The idea behind the slow cure time is not how long it takes to pour it, as that is only a few minuets but the time it takes to let it level out. ..Clive
.
I have done a bit of research and you can buy it in Dublin here:- Waller & Wickham
Unit 96, Baldoyle Industrial Estate, Dublin, , Republic of Ireland
353 18392330 He will be in his office around lunch time today.

[JAZZCNC]

Clive Cmon he's in Ireland don't think finding a cool days is going to be a problem, . . dry day well !! . .

Paul I've used epoxy with equivalent cure times to 206 in past and had no problems but like clive says the conditions must be correct. Infact I've just ordered some 206 because ECF didn't have the 209 and couldn't wait or fancy being ripped off.( wanted nearly double the 206.!!) and I don't envisage any problems.

[PAULRO]

the frame is nearly finished. i have to weld in the table locators on each side and give it a lick of paint. it looks big ( it is ) but i said to myself that i may need upgradeability considering the growth of the DIY cncs over the past number of years and the bigger routers that are coming on stream.

i also welded the electric cabinet frame together, 800 x 600 x 200 deep ( just under 3 lengths of 20 x 20 angle). i have 1mm galvanize to sheet it and some hinges knocking about somewhere.
the frame and cabinet should be finished by next weekend and then i'll get a moat organised for the dreaded epoxy pour!!

[Jonathan]

Z1: 0-0.02C or Z2: 0.02C-0.05C . i'm sure either of these will do the job but would like to know which preload is the preferred choice for wood routers.

You get a slight increase in stiffness with higher preload, at the expense of lower life and higher driving force. For a wood router the change in stiffness is negligible compared to other parts of the system, so I'd go with Z1.

[PAULRO]

At long last the very kind people in shannon customs have released my profiles and ballscrews,i can now start in the next phase of the build.

[PAULRO]

Well at long last I can get back to the build of this baby. i had to take a break and head abroad for a time but i'm back now with a clear run for the next few months . i poured the epoxy and left it cure for 72 hours and i'm pleased with the result. i had a heater running and had the cubicle locked up to control the heat. it has some air bubbles but i can live with that.

[PAULRO]

I assembled the gantry and attached the bottom linear guide with its housing plate. i then used this to mount a hand held router and skim the the top linear slide bed. i took 0.4 mm deep across the entire length to ensure parallelism. it turned out o.k. but the weight of the router left an angle on the base so used the z axis assemble instead to machine it again and it turned out pretty good.

[PAULRO]

i have the z axis built and assembled and i have the pulleys drilled and reamed ready to go but i rotated a ball nut to far and the bearings started to fall out so now i'm left with a basin of bearings and an empty ball nut . i have looked on line for some tutorial to enlighten me on the re-assembly but cannot find any thing.
the ballnut has 6 plastic change overs in it , 3 pairs at 180 degrees to each other . the ball nut is a 16 x 10 pitch with a double start thread. if any body has any experience of these i would be very obliged at this stage . i'm itching to get back at this build and move on to the electrics,

thanks in advance , Paulro

i will post more pics tomorrow once i have the ball nut assembled.

[Jonathan]

You should be able to find examples on this forum - plenty of us have made that mistake!

Two ways I've found that work well:

1) Put grease on the balls to stick them to the nut, then gradually insert the retaining tube as you go to support them.
2) Put the biggest magnet you can find on the ballnut, so the balls stick to it in side. Carefully place them in the right place with something non-magnetic.