Let the fun begin !!! ???

**PAULRO** · 13-08-2014

i had used 20 mm flanged bearing blocks in the original dwg and that impacted on the clearance for the ball screwnut. I had also designed the z axis plate to be machined at 160 mm wide to try and keep the gantry length to the minimum . I should have used 20 mm square type bearing block to give more clearance and accommodate the 160mm width. ya i will stick with the z axis travel of 150mm - 160mm and adjustable bed. good call. i will have to get a supplier organized for the guides and rails. I dealt with chinese suppliers in a previous job and there were reliable so i'll drop them a line and see where it takes me. maybe i should wait until i have secured the rails and guides before I go any further with the z axis design?

**PAULRO** · 13-08-2014

Has anybody used the linear guides and rails from Chai? i have organised the ball screws from him and thought i would use his linear gear but only on a recommendation from the previous builders here.

**JAZZCNC** · 13-08-2014

Originally Posted by PAULRO

Has anybody used the linear guides and rails from Chai? i have organised the ball screws from him and thought i would use his linear gear but only on a recommendation from the previous builders here.

If your talking about the Profiled linear guides then yes I use them all the time and they are fine.

**PAULRO** · 19-08-2014

steel has arrived and is cut and both sidewalls are welded.

Click image for larger version.

Name: DSC_0110.jpg
Views: 657
Size: 209.5 KB
ID: 13138

Click image for larger version.

Name: DSC_0114.jpg
Views: 691
Size: 203.2 KB
ID: 13139

I have to string the crossbeams and tie both together.

I contacted http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk /to purchase epoxy 105 and hardener 209 but drew a blank . apparently they don't stock 209 hardener but told me the 205 or 206 hardener are very similar but for pot time and cure time. has anybody used these hardeners? i'll probably go with the 206 because it has a longer pot life but would like some feed back before i do.

i also spoke to Chai about his linear guides and rails and the preloads are as follows
Z1: 0-0.02C or Z2: 0.02C-0.05C . i'm sure either of these will do the job but would like to know which preload is the preferred choice for wood routers.

**Clive S** · 19-08-2014

Paul I contacted ecf as that is where I purchased mine from they don't stock it but they can order it, but they will not deliver it out of the country. Here is a chart that will show you the difference between 206 and 209 (page 3) http://www.paynesmarine.com/document...0Adhesives.pdf as far as I can see the 206 cure time is about 9 to 12 hours and the 209 has a cure time of 12-24 hours but the 209 is recommended in hotter conditions. The idea behind the slow cure time is not how long it takes to pour it, as that is only a few minuets but the time it takes to let it level out. ..Clive
.
I have done a bit of research and you can buy it in Dublin here:- Waller & Wickham
Unit 96, Baldoyle Industrial Estate, Dublin, , Republic of Ireland
353 18392330 He will be in his office around lunch time today.

**JAZZCNC** · 19-08-2014

Clive Cmon he's in Ireland don't think finding a cool days is going to be a problem, . . dry day well !! . .

Paul I've used epoxy with equivalent cure times to 206 in past and had no problems but like clive says the conditions must be correct. Infact I've just ordered some 206 because ECF didn't have the 209 and couldn't wait or fancy being ripped off.( wanted nearly double the 206.!!) and I don't envisage any problems.

**PAULRO** · 24-08-2014

Click image for larger version.

Name: DSC_0115.jpg
Views: 852
Size: 387.9 KB
ID: 13199

Click image for larger version.

Name: DSC_0116.jpg
Views: 805
Size: 390.3 KB
ID: 13198

the frame is nearly finished. i have to weld in the table locators on each side and give it a lick of paint. it looks big ( it is ) but i said to myself that i may need upgradeability considering the growth of the DIY cncs over the past number of years and the bigger routers that are coming on stream.

Click image for larger version.

Name: DSC_0119.jpg
Views: 772
Size: 139.6 KB
ID: 13200

i also welded the electric cabinet frame together, 800 x 600 x 200 deep ( just under 3 lengths of 20 x 20 angle). i have 1mm galvanize to sheet it and some hinges knocking about somewhere.
the frame and cabinet should be finished by next weekend and then i'll get a moat organised for the dreaded epoxy pour!!

**Jonathan** · 25-08-2014

Originally Posted by PAULRO

Z1: 0-0.02C or Z2: 0.02C-0.05C . i'm sure either of these will do the job but would like to know which preload is the preferred choice for wood routers.

You get a slight increase in stiffness with higher preload, at the expense of lower life and higher driving force. For a wood router the change in stiffness is negligible compared to other parts of the system, so I'd go with Z1.

**PAULRO** · 24-09-2014

At long last the very kind people in shannon customs have released my profiles and ballscrews,

i can now start in the next phase of the build.

**PAULRO** · 14-01-2015

Well at long last I can get back to the build of this baby. i had to take a break and head abroad for a time but i'm back now with a clear run for the next few months . i poured the epoxy and left it cure for 72 hours and i'm pleased with the result. i had a heater running and had the cubicle locked up to control the heat. it has some air bubbles but i can live with that.