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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by Washout View Post
    BTW if you are going to use linear rails/bearings on all X and Y and using the "fill in" the dovetail method you used on the Z, are you going to lose ~60mm in the Z due to the height of those units?
    Something like that, yes. I could get the Z-height back again by adding a spacer block under the column, but clearly how that affects the strength needs to be considered. Also, I'm tepmpted to replace the existing table with something bigger...
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  2. #2
    Lee Roberts's Avatar
    Lives in Wigan, United Kingdom. Current Activity: Viewing Moderator Control Panel Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,914. Received thanks 227 times, giving thanks to others 776 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Referred 11 members to the community.
    Really cool,

    We defo needed some cnc "mill conversion" logs on here, loved the bolt spacing theory so thanks for sharing that, cant wait to see the rest, keep up the good work !

    EDIT: Just a quick question, how come you went with ali for the column back plate rather than steel?

    EDIT 2: I dont know if it will apply to you, but i recently watched a build log where the guy filled in any voids in the base and so on with a mix of stone and epoxy, will you be doing that as well or?

    .Me
    Last edited by Lee Roberts; 25-06-2014 at 12:48 PM.
    .Me

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Roberts View Post
    EDIT: Just a quick question, how come you went with ali for the column back plate rather than steel?
    1) I can mount the motor drivers in the column - the aluminum plate can be used as a heatsink, so saves buying that.
    2) Aluminium is easier for me to machine.
    3) I had a 1.50x0.74x0.02m sheet of aluminium 'lying around' and I'm not sure where to buy steel plate for a reasonable price.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Roberts View Post
    EDIT 2: I dont know if it will apply to you, but i recently watched a build log where the guy filled in any voids in the base and so on with a mix of stone and epoxy, will you be doing that as well or?
    I'm considering it - it seems worthwhile, but I might be better off just making a new base.
    Last edited by Jonathan; 26-06-2014 at 01:22 PM.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  4. #4
    Lee Roberts's Avatar
    Lives in Wigan, United Kingdom. Current Activity: Viewing Moderator Control Panel Forum Superstar, has done so much to help others, they deserve a medal. Has been a member for 9-10 years. Has a total post count of 2,914. Received thanks 227 times, giving thanks to others 776 times. Made a monetary donation to the upkeep of the community. Referred 11 members to the community.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    1) I can mount the motor drivers in the column - the aluminum plate can be used as a heatsink, so saves buying that.
    2) Aluminium is easier for me to machine.
    3) I had a 1.50x0.74x0.02m sheet of aluminium 'lying around' and I'm not sure where to buy steel plate for a reasonable price. I'm considering it - it seems worthwhile, but I might be better off just making a new base.
    Ahh fair enough then.

    I looked at a build on the zone the other day re making a base, on that build, they used a lump of granite for the base, what are your thoughts on doing that?

    .Me
    .Me

  5. #5
    What sort of motor are you using for the spindle?
    And how on earth does it achieve such a high power density?

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by embraced View Post
    What sort of motor are you using for the spindle?
    And how on earth does it achieve such a high power density?
    It's the same type of motor as I used here - permanent magnet synchronous motor (PMSM), with an outer rotor. The high power density partly stems from the magnets, which replace the rotor magnetising current in, for example, an induction motor, resulting in lower losses. There is more to it than that though - e.g. differences in cooling.

    This is how far I've got with rewinding the motor - two phases done, but I do have a low resistance from one phase to the stator, so I'll probably have to re-do that one and be more careful.

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    Cut out the motor mount for Z from 20mm thick aluminium yesterday:

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    This morning I cut the motor mounting plate for the spindle motor:

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    This is where it fits:

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    The large pulley (60T) isn't all the way on the spindle shaft, but this shows the general idea. The spindle pulley is keyed and the motor pulley fixed using four grubscrews, which should be sufficient...more on that later.

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    The spindle pulley is much bigger than the original gear, so I had to mill a bit off the top cover to clear the pulley and belt:

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    Z-ballnut mount (again):

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    I just need to make the Z-ballscrew bearing mounts, finish rewinding the motor and make the driver, decide if I need an encoder on the spindle and then I can continue with the ATC.
    Last edited by Jonathan; 29-06-2014 at 11:20 AM.
    Old router build log here. New router build log here. Lathe build log here.
    Electric motorbike project here.

  7. #7
    a cracking thread again jon.
    im looking forward to seeing how this performs,thanks for posting ;)

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