The Big Red Mechmate in Aus

[ozspeedway]

Web Goblin... you have solved it! The stupid hat goes to me. I have infact now got 2 PNOZ 1 relays that require 24VAC not 24VDC and that puts both of them totally useless to me. I will contact the ebay seller once again and see if I can send them both back and get a 24VDC PNOZ 4. Barrring that a quick toroid supply making 24VAC just for the PNOZ might be in order.

[ozspeedway]

OK, it is cheaper for me to just go buy a 12VAC + 12VAC toroid and use that for the relay plus it will allow me to continue the control box this weekend rather than next week sometime. I can get either a straight toroid or a PCB mounted 24VAC supply, will decide which when I get to the store.

More updates to follow once I have the relay powered off the correct voltage type :)

[Web Goblin]

Glad it helped you out, we all get a shot of the hat sometimes . I would go for the 24VAC option for the relay supply.
As you say it will let you continue with your build.

[ozspeedway]

Well, surprise, surprise. When you supply the PNOZ with the correct voltage type it works :) Nice "ker-chunk" from the relay when pressing reset and 2 led's all lit up. I now have 2, one spare, one in the control box. Off to do more control box wiring, getting closer to the BRMM (Big Red Mechmate) moving on its own.......

[ozspeedway]

This is a question for either Eddy Current or anyone that knows his safety circuit. I have attached what I think is correct for adapting the circuit on sheet 4 of Eddy's drawings to a Mechmate. As some of you may know, Mechmate's have mini control boxes attached to the machine, one each side of the gantry (X1 & X2) and one on the Y car. These give you access to any control while working around the machine. As can be seen in the attached drawing I have separated out the reset/start, stop & pause buttons into the 3 sections that will reside at each of the points above. It is this wiring I would like checked as to my tired eyes it looks to conform with Eddy's drawing only with parts of it in triplicate. Bottom line, am I on the right track :)



Cheers
Bruce

[EddyCurrent]

Bruce, it's true that reading other peoples drawings can sometimes be difficult, I'm at that place now.
It might be best to describe in words what you are trying to achieve.

For example you have these 3 control stations with, Reset/Start, Pause, Stop, so what do you want each of these buttons to do ?
What do you want the PILZ relay to control ?
If an AM882 goes into alarm what do want that to do ?

I'm thinking it might be best to ignore my circuit for the most part so we can get your machine to do what you want it to do.

[ozspeedway]

Hi EddyCurrent, good to see you again. I am 80% through your drawings and have it working for the most part. The mains to the 24V circuit works, the mains to 50V circuit work, the E-Stop circuit works, all of these via the PNOZ as per your drawings. It is just these that I have had to think a little more about. Basically each of these boxes do what the buttons on your main control panel do, namely stop the machine, pause the machine and start the machine as well as reset the circuit. Now, I have everything working as per your drawing, that is one of each. My drawing above is taking that and making it into 3 lots instead, each one is a copy of buttons on your main panel. In a standard Mechmate, these do pretty much what your circuit does, "start" starts the job, and "pause" pauses the job. There is no "stop" button on a standard MM but I want to incorporate one. There *is* an E-stop in each on an MM though. The start & pause buttons are controlled via pins on the BOB and are assigned to codes that execute when pressed. I however will be using you brains to run things.

Don't get me wrong, I have a large percentage of your drawings worked out, it has taken me a while but I got there and have run wires :) This last little bit should see the control box interacting with the computer by weeks end just to verify the pushing a button does what it is supposed to.

Oh, and the relay numbers have been incremented by one, I am using 2 contactors instead of one and my main on/off one is now K1.