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  1. #1
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    You really need a 12V or 24V power supply to work but they can still be connected to your BOB, power supplies are not expensive. ..Clive
    I do have both power supplies in my CNC cabinet, so can i refresh -
    I need 12 to 24 vdc proximity switches, NPN, N.C. all i need know is a scheme / Wiring diagram, can you help?

    Ray

  2. #2
    This is the drawing. You will have to make sure the 0v terminals of both power supplies are connected together otherwise it will not work. Where it shows a 24v dc PSU you could use a 12V dc PSU instead if desired.
    Colours of the proximity switch wires are for the ones I used but I think they are pretty standard.
    Because these are home switches I was not overly concerned about N/O, N/C, so for example mine are 'off' and 'open' until they are activated whereupon they are 'on' and 'closed'. If you get yours wired up and they operate the wrong way you thought they would you can just 'invert' their operation in the software.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by EddyCurrent; 17-07-2014 at 12:14 PM.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  3. #3
    Hi Eddy. I'm confused, why do i need a separate 5 volt psu, when my BoB is already putting out 5 volt. On the board there are terminals for 5 limits but only two wire each, + & -, Am i reading it wrong or what?

    Ray
    Quote Originally Posted by EddyCurrent View Post
    This is the drawing. You will have to make sure the 0v terminals of both power supplies are connected together otherwise it will not work. Where it shows a 24v dc PSU you could use a 12V dc PSU instead if desired.
    Colours of the proximity switch wires are for the ones I used but I think they are pretty standard.
    Because these are home switches I was not overly concerned about N/O, N/C, so for example mine are 'off' and 'open' until they are activated whereupon they are 'on' and 'closed'. If you get yours wired up and they operate the wrong way you thought they would you can just 'invert' their operation in the software.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	proxy1.jpg 
Views:	2299 
Size:	21.9 KB 
ID:	12831
    Last edited by manofgresley; 17-07-2014 at 04:21 PM.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by manofgresley View Post
    Hi Eddy. I'm confused, why do i need a separate 5 volt psu, when my BoB is already putting out 5 volt. On the board there are terminals for 5 limits but only two wire each, + & -, Am i reading it wrong or what?

    Ray
    I don't know your BOB but you have to power it from somewhere I and others are assuming it is powered from a 5V source if it is powered from 12V then you can use that to drive your sensors.
    Can you confirm what the BOB is powered from? ..Clive

  5. #5
    My BoB is powered by a seperate Transformer which has a duel out put of 5 v0lt and 36 volt
    Quote Originally Posted by Clive S View Post
    I don't know your BOB but you have to power it from somewhere I and others are assuming it is powered from a 5V source if it is powered from 12V then you can use that to drive your sensors.
    Can you confirm what the BOB is powered from? ..Clive
    Last edited by manofgresley; 17-07-2014 at 06:21 PM.

  6. #6
    That BoB, I believe is powered either from the USB lead or a separate 5v input. There will be a switch on the board or a jumper to select which. The BoB doesn't put 5v out AFAIK.

  7. #7
    You are correct, it is powered by a seperat Transformer, does this mean i can use sensors with higher than 5 volt?

    Ray
    Quote Originally Posted by cropwell View Post
    That BoB, I believe is powered either from the USB lead or a separate 5v input. There will be a switch on the board or a jumper to select which. The BoB doesn't put 5v out AFAIK.
    Last edited by manofgresley; 17-07-2014 at 08:57 PM.

  8. Hi Ray,

    You need NPN NC switches. I'm fairly sure, but not 100% that your BOB doesn't have opto-isolated inputs (the manual is useless), but maybe someone can confirm this. Do you have a voltmeter/multi-meter? If so measure the voltage from limit switch input to ground (with power on the BOB). If its more than 2v then its probably not opto-isolated and if it 5v it probably has an internal pull up. In which case wire the switch as:
    .
    Brown: +12 or 24v power supply
    Black: To BOB limit input
    Blue: to Ground on BOB limit input AND to Ground on 12/24v supply.
    .
    Now you need to decide for X and Y if home is at one end of table travel or in the middle (Z home is always the top). Since proximity sensors work on approach of ferrous material, if Home is in the middle of the movement range, Mach has the problem of knowing which side to approach the sensor from since approaching from either side will give the same result electrically but will be offset by potentially 8mm mechanically. I don't know how you tell Mach to home from a given direction, but I'm sure it can be done...
    .
    edit: Eddy types faster lol. But I want to reiterate the proximity sensor accuracy previously discussed is for material approaching axially (i.e. towards the end of the sensor). For this requirement the approach will have to be radially, i.e. across the face.
    Last edited by irving2008; 17-07-2014 at 12:19 PM.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by irving2008 View Post
    edit: Eddy types faster lol.
    Sometimes it's best to type it up into Notepad first then just paste it into a post.
    Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by irving2008 View Post
    I don't know how you tell Mach to home from a given direction, but I'm sure it can be done...
    .

    In Mach3 there is a dialogue box to set the homing direction of each axis.

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