Well here goes... Aluminium frame router design

**Clive S** · 28-08-2015

Neale Very good explanation much better than I could have done it

..Clive

**CharlieRam** · 20-09-2015

Here goes, my steel and aluminium have arrived. My mill is installed and I've had a play with my evolution saw... It's bloody loud when cutting steel but I'm really impressed with it. I feel like I need to make a new build log and close this thread off now? Just one question though, how do you lot measure your large beams (eg. 1350mm) after machining, do you just rely on your machines açcuracy, I've only got a tape measure!
I was thinking about getting a 3 axis dro for my machine but connecting the 3rd longest scale to some round rail to make a large height gauge. What do you think?
Anyway here's a couple of pics and I'll see you all in my build log when I post it :-)

**Tenson** · 21-09-2015

Tape measure is pretty accurate, more than you might imagine ;)

Very clean, where is all the mess from cutting!?

**CharlieRam** · 21-09-2015

Not done much cutting yet, just facing the beams so they are square and using my tape measure for measuring ;-)

**CharlieRam** · 11-10-2015

Spent about 3 hours today learning to weld...Think I need another 3 months and I might get somewhere! I kept getting the rod stuck , I managed to get it arc'ing probably 2 or 3 times and once it was arc'ing I could get it going again until I changed the rod and then it was back to square one :-( , am I using too low an amp setting? I am using 2.5mm rods and I tried the welders recommended setting of 80amps but the only time I got it arcing was at about 110amps. Is that too high or should I go higher still.
Better still, any welders in the Derby area want to help me out who needs the use of a mini mill :-)
Cheers, Charlie

**mekanik** · 12-10-2015

Hi Charlie
I don't do a lot of stick welding as i have TIG but i do use it for rough jobs, you should be OK with the recommended Amps, what usually happens as you have found is the rod sticking to the job then you can't pull it off and it starts to get red hot so you have to release it from the holder. sometimes you can drag the rod across the job to initiate the arc but i prefer to peck it until it starts the arc.
if you get a sticky one that wont start just file a notch through the flux a bit further up and break the end off to expose the electrode and try again. you will get the hang of it.
Regards
Mike

**CharlieRam** · 12-10-2015

Thanks for the reply, I have watched tons of YouTube videos so should be an expert by now

, I have tried the drag (strike a match) and tapping method but before I even manage an arc the rod seems to stick, maybe its in my technique, I will try again.
Cheers, Charlie

**Tenson** · 12-10-2015

I'm not a welder but if you are having trouble getting it to arc, have you made sure the material is clean and a good conducive surface is exposed?

**mekanik** · 12-10-2015

Charlie
Try practicing without the set set on, what you appear to be doing is not pulling the rod away to allow an arc to form, so tap the workpiece and pull the rod away about 15mm with the power on the arc should initiate, then lower the rod to get a stable arc.
re cutting to length, tape rule should be fine but i dont like the loose bit on the end so always measure from the 100mm mark and add 100mm to your required length, i clamp the rule with a rubber faced clamp.
Good luck
Mike

**komatias** · 12-10-2015

80 amps seems ok from my experience (a few 10s of 2.5mm and another so many 3.2mm). If between rods you cannot get it to arc, try breaking the flux around the electrode by hand. Careful, it is hot.

It really makes a difference when you have very clean metal both on the hot side as well as where you apply your grounding clamp. Also try to minimise the distance between the two.

Regards

George