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26-08-2014 #1
dip switches are all the same (I adjusted them from 16micro steps to 8 yesterday).
Mach3 is latest version from Mach3 website.
Will try a different cable (I'd like to dismiss this, but my given one failure of deduction already I'm more open to testing).
I got the graunchy sound (which I thought was ballnut, but now think it is motor caused) also when using Gcode. I haven't cut anything yet so don't know about circles.
I just ran my tests using the X and Z outputs from the BOB (alone with no other connection) and got the same result, ie the fault only occurs when using driver2. different output from BOB also means different keyboard key and different pin on parallel port, so tends to rule those out as cause.
Defect appears to be in driver2 and maybe also BOB? I can't work out how pressing eg Y axis (with no driver connected) can cause problem on X axis, other than the BOB also being at fault.
I'm about to put the gantry back on and try driving X and Y using drivers 1 and 3. Which hopefully should work.
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26-08-2014 #2
I almost don't want to mention this, using driver1 (a supposed good one) I did an extended test for the graunchy sound, after about 5mins of up and down (still just the long axis, no gantry) it started to make a bit of a noise.
This leads me to think the ballnut is fine and the noise is related to the drive problem. Driver2 starts to breakdown(?) quickly, Driver1 breaks down after longer time. I don't know what I mean by break down, maybe a heat thing? (I'll put my hand on the heatsink next time).
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26-08-2014 #3
So I've established that D2 faults even when by itself. D1 and D3 do not fault.
When I use D1 and D3 together, D1 faults (whether it is X or Y axis). Go to about 2:40 to see the problem demonstrated.
http://youtu.be/raNVEsXro5c
I did a prolonged test with the strongest driver D3 on the long axis, almost no graunching noise after 10mins (, except at 9:21 !) video: http://youtu.be/3EQlJWFV8XY
I've now tested some GCODE, same fault. eg zigzg lines don't work on one diagonal.
My 1flute cutters arrived so I had to make my first cut in delrin, 11000rpm DOC 1mm feed 1100mm/min. It was quite loud, the delrin was in a vice clamped to the table. It's all a bit like an aluminium drum at the moment, I will have to add a layer of something once I've thought about how I'm going to clamp my work etcLast edited by jimbo_cnc; 26-08-2014 at 07:45 PM.
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26-08-2014 #4
Hi iv just picked up a 60/40 just the same as yours but it has the all in one board. Iv had problems with my motors as well. if i set the tuning to what they say in the set up sheet, Then run them at 100 jog they jam when i running them up and down. they run for about 50mm then jam. I have set the motor tuning to half what they say and they seem to run ok. so that would be 400 1000 100 . Iy runs slower but no horrible crunching. This is my first cnc so i dont know enuf to know if this is ok but its running.
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26-08-2014 #5
Must be age related but I've been getting mixed up with this thread http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7816-...0874#post60874
As amxen says get the velocity and acceleration down on Mach3 to something that won't (shouldn't ?)cause any issues.
Once that's eliminated my stab is that the breakout board is faulty and it's either a bad soldered joint on the inputs pull-up resistor pack or the pack itself. (sometimes I like to live dangerous)
Last edited by EddyCurrent; 26-08-2014 at 08:31 PM.
Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
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26-08-2014 #6
The good driver is happy running the long axis at 4000mm/min & 400mm/s2 (twice the standard) on its own. The fault occurs even with all axes at 1/2 standard speed.
What's a half decent PSU/BOB/3x drives gonna cost me? If the seller can't replace quickly or the next ione is also faulty I'll be after a discount towards my replacement controller box.
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26-08-2014 #7
I may be wrong but I think these are the main UK suppliers of stuff used by DIY'ers, plus obviously there's ebay.
http://www.diycnc.co.uk/
http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/
http://cnc4you.co.uk/
If I was in your position I woud change the breakout board first and would most likely choose a similar board from ebay, they are less than a tenner from abroad, in fact I have just realised I have a board like yours that I bought to get extra inputs to my system, it's working fine in that role. It connects into port2 of my SmoothStepper
Last edited by EddyCurrent; 26-08-2014 at 10:06 PM.
Spelling mistakes are not intentional, I only seem to see them some time after I've posted
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